Big Bear, CA
I quiet mountain community full of back country adventure.
St Thomas Nevada – Clark County Ghost Town
Founded in 1865 when Brigham Young sent settles to the confluence of the Virgin River and Muddy Rivers. St Thomas Nevada remained a Mormon settlement until 1871 when a surveying correction placed the town in Nevada. When the Mormons abandoned the area, other settlers claimed the property. St Thomas used to served as a pit stop for travelers between Los Angeles, California and Salt Lake City, Utah using along the old Arrow Highway (US 91).
The United States Federal Government “purchased” the land as part of the Hoover Dam project. In actuality, there were multiple suits as the residents of St. Thomas raise complaints about the amount the federal government was paying for their land. In time, the residence lost and the entire town was doomed to its destiny and the water of Lake Mead continued to rise.
The last known resident as Hugh Lord, who remained until the water surrounded his home. He loaded is possessions into a row boat, set fire to his home, and rowed off into history. Soon the rising water of Lake Mead swallowed the entire down, and wasted the landscape with water 60 feet deep. From time to time, the lake level will drop low enough to expose this lost town.
The town is currently exposed, and lies in the lake bed surrounded by a large expanse of tamarisk. The dirt road to the trail-head is located just inside the entrance to Lake Mead National Recreation Area when coming from Moapa and Overton and the trail is beyond simple and suitable for almost every vehicle.
The 2.5 miles hiking trail is very easy and takes you from the trail-head and loops through the town. The trail would be a bit more difficult if you attempt the trail during the hot summer months. Remains of the town are limited to foundations, some old wood fence posts and some metal artifacts such as farming equipment and a V-8 small block. The park service appears to cut the tamarisk back to expose the foundations for visitors, however the cut off tamarisk trucks can be a tripping hazard and would be harsh it you fell on one, so keep in eye on where you step.
I have been to many ghost towns over the years. Many of them lost in history due to mines failing to produce, fire, hard environments and disease. St Thomas is different from all the others. This is a ghost town by design, by protest and there is no better reminder than the fresh water clam shells which litter the site. The fact that there are viable towns (Moapa and Overton) just a few miles away make St Thomas all the more poignant.
St Thomas Trail Map
Upper Antelope Canyon
Located just outside of Page, Arizona Upper Antelope Canyon is arguably the best known slot canyon on the planet, yet few people will know its name outside of desert enthusiasts. For those unaware of these structures, slot canyons are extremely narrow canyons, carved by water, which are typically just a few feet wide, but may be just a few inches. The typically arid dessert can instantly turn into raging torrent of water in just a few minutes with just a few inches of water. This water picks up speed, and debris such as sand, which scours the landscape including rock. Antelope Canyon is found on Navajo Tribal land, and access to the canyon is only allowed with a Navajo Guide.
Antelope Canyon is actually two separate slot canyons located a short distance from each other on either side of US 98. Upper Antelope Canyon is know as Tse’ bighanilini, which in Navajo means “the place where water runs through rocks.” Travel to the Canyon is done via Navajo run transport and you are allowed about 2 hours for your visit. The site is at about 4,000 feet elevation and the canyon walls rise 120 feet above a stream bed.
I would like to thank the LeChee Chapter of the Navajo Nation for keeping this location sacred and available to us.
James Rathbun, Destination4x4.com
Access into the upper canyon is simply a walking into a canyon. The trail is flat and sandy and very easy to manage. Upon entrance into the Upper Antelope Canyon you are immediately struck by the texture and color of this place. Just inside the entrance, is a small chamber which seems to great you, and the pink and orange glow of the light bouncing off the walls force your eyes up. The geography is such, that the narrow opening high above you lets in a small fraction of the available light, and that light bounces down towards the bottom of the canyon.
Relatively short, Upper Antelope Canyon may be traversed in just 5 minutes. However, this is simply a waste of your time if you just rush through. The only complaint of the canyon, are the other visitors. As a photographer, I have many photographs ruined by people turning a corner and walking into my frame while I was making an exposure. This does not mean they were rude or anything but patient, but rather an unfortunate side effect of composing photographs with long exposure times in a 18 inch wide slot Canyon.
As with all beautiful things, we must share this location and Antelope Canyon is a must stop location every time I visit the area. There is a hidden danger, in that the very forces which sculpt a slot canyon are still very much in play and every few years a new story will appear about someone being killed in a slot canyon due to a sudden flash flood.
I would like to thank the LeChee Chapter of the Navajo Nation for keeping this location sacred and available to us.
Upper Antelope Canyon Map
Goblin Valley Utah
Goblin Valley is located in Utah is a state park and campground which is adjacent to eroded flood plain. Formed by water, time and a soft sandstone, erosion sculpted the limestone into unique rock formations which some have stated appears to be goblins. The Goblin Valley itself is a day use hiking area which allows one to get lost in the maze of spires and rock formations.
Each rock spire ranges in height from 3 feet to about 20 feet tall. The fragile structures litter the landscape and sadly on occasion have been felled by people who do not have respect for nature. There are three established self, however the Valley of the Goblins is a open trail flat mud plane after a easy and short trail down from the parking area.
Goblin Valley State Park does offer an established campground of 22 campsites just over a hill from the Valley of the Goblins. The campground features, paved sites, bathrooms, showers, water and dump stations. The campground is very popular destination due to location next to Goblin Valley and is also a wonderful centralized base camp location for exploring the San Rafael Swell.
We stated in Goblin Valley in the off season several years ago. We were greeted with lots of camp sites available, privacy and a minor wind and rain storm. Despite the less then desirable conditions, we enjoyed our stay and will try to make it back again in the future.
Continue Reading →Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve
Established in 1976, the Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve is located just west of Mojave and boasts the most consistent blooms that the California Poppy. The reserve does not plant or water the flowers, so the timing and abundance of the flowers is solely dependent upon rainfall each year. The bloom season begins late winter and may last throughout the spring depending upon conditions. In addition to the poppy, the Reserve also hosts a variety of species including Owl’s Clover, Davy Gilia, Goldfields, Lupine and Cream Cups.
The 1745 acre flower reserve ranges in elevation frim 2600 to 3000 feet in elevations and boasts 7 miles of trails. There are limited facilities, but the reserve does have some wheel chair access.
The California Poppy ( Eschscholzia californica ) is a small perennial is typically a short flowering planet which boasts a vibrant orange bloom. The flower itself grows on top of a sledder stalk and the four petal flower which has a silky texture, appears extremely delicate and vulnerable to the elements. The flowers open each morning and close in the evening with the cooler air.
The California Poppy has a large range which included more of California, parts of Oregon, Washington, Nevada, Arizona and Northern Baja California.
Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve Map
North Rim Campground
North Rim Campground, perched on the remote and rustic North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park at an elevation of 8,200–8,300 feet, is a scenic haven for campers seeking solitude and stunning views. With 90 mixed-use campsites, including 78 for tents, trailers, and RVs (up to 40 feet) and 12 tent-only walk-in sites, it operates from May 15 to October 15, with reservations required via Recreation.gov. Located 210 miles from the bustling South Rim, North Rim Campground offers a quieter, less crowded alternative, nestled in a dense forest of ponderosa pines and aspens. Its proximity to the canyon’s edge and trails like the Transept and North Kaibab makes it a prime base for exploring the North Rim’s dramatic vistas. Below is a detailed review of its setting, amenities, accessibility, and overall experience, paired with a vivid description of the Grand Canyon.
Description of the Grand Canyon
The Grand Canyon, one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, is a colossal chasm carved by the Colorado River over millions of years, stretching 277 miles long, up to 18 miles wide, and over a mile deep. From the North Rim, at an elevation of 8,000–9,000 feet, the canyon reveals a distinct character compared to the South Rim. Its higher elevation and forested Kaibab Plateau setting create a greener, cooler landscape, with sweeping views of layered red, orange, and cream-colored rock formations that tell a geological story spanning nearly two billion years. The North Rim’s vistas, such as those from Bright Angel Point or Cape Royal, emphasize the canyon’s depth and vastness, with distant buttes and temples rising from the depths, often framed by lush meadows and aspen groves that turn golden in fall.
The canyon’s ecosystem teems with wildlife, including the endemic Kaibab squirrel, mule deer, and elusive mountain lions, while condors soar above the cliffs. The North Rim, receiving only 10–15% of the park’s visitors, offers a serene experience, with quieter trails and viewpoints that feel intimate despite the canyon’s immense scale. Sunrises and sunsets paint the rock layers in vibrant hues, and the night sky, unmarred by light pollution, is a stargazer’s paradise. The rugged terrain and remoteness demand respect, with monsoon thunderstorms (June–September) and early snows adding to the wild, untamed beauty.
Campground Details
Location and Accessibility
North Rim Campground is located at the end of State Highway 67, 41 miles south of Jacob Lake, AZ, and 210 miles (4.5 hours) from Grand Canyon Village on the South Rim. Accessible via Highway 89A to Highway 67, it’s a remote destination with no direct road across the canyon. The campground is one mile north of the North Rim Visitor Center and Grand Canyon Lodge, connected by the scenic Transept Trail (1.2 miles). A free shuttle operates within the North Rim area, though most attractions, like Bright Angel Point, are within walking distance.
The campground features paved roads and parking spurs, but many sites are not level, with tight curves and narrow passages through trees, limiting larger RVs. Five sites (11, 14, 15, 16, 18) offer canyon views, while tent-only sites (T-1 to T-6) border the Transept Canyon rim. Three wheelchair-accessible sites are available, with nearby flush toilets and sinks, though the tent-only area has a vault toilet. The uneven terrain and walk-in tent sites (20–200 feet from parking) may pose challenges for those with mobility issues.
Amenities
Each campsite includes a picnic table, fire ring with grill, and access to shared bear-proof food storage lockers (required for food and scented items). The campground offers drinking water, flush toilets, and sinks throughout, with a vault toilet in the tent-only section. Coin-operated showers and laundry are available near the general store, though they may close during water restrictions. A free dump station and potable water for RVs are located near the entrance. The general store, a short walk away, stocks groceries, camping supplies, and firewood, while the Grand Canyon Lodge offers dining options, including sit-down and grab-and-go meals. No electric, water, or sewer hook-ups are available at sites.
Campsite Layout and Privacy
The campground is nestled in a thick ponderosa pine and aspen forest, providing ample shade but limited privacy due to closely spaced sites. Premium sites (11, 14, 15, 16, 18, 23, 24, 25, 26, 29, 31) offer filtered canyon views, while tent-only sites T-1 to T-6 border the Transept Canyon rim, providing scenic outlooks. “Site 18 was incredible—steps from the rim with a jaw-dropping view,” noted a camper (Tripadvisor, 2024). Sites are generally well-spaced, but some, like site 51, have layout issues, with trees obstructing pull-through access, requiring backing out (Campendium, 2024). The forested setting and quiet atmosphere enhance the experience, though noise from nearby campers can occasionally disrupt the peace.
RV and Tent Camping
The campground accommodates tents, RVs, and trailers up to 40 feet, though many sites are limited to 15–27 feet due to tight turns and trees. The maximum length includes both the RV/trailer and tow vehicle, and pop-outs or awnings may not fit at some sites. Tent-only sites require a short walk (20–200 feet) from the parking lot, accommodating up to six people per site. Three group sites (A, B, C) allow up to 25 people and three vehicles (max 12 feet). Generators are permitted during restricted hours (7–9 AM, 12–2 PM, 5–7 PM). Free parking is available, with overflow near the general store.
Reservation and Cost
Reservations are required from May 15 to September 15, bookable up to six months in advance via Recreation.gov, with sites costing $18–$50 per night (group sites up to $55). From October 16 to October 31, sites are first-come, first-served, weather permitting. Demand is high, and sites often sell out quickly. “Book at 7 AM sharp six months out, or check for cancellations daily,” advised a camper (PerfectCamp, 2024). A backcountry permit ($10 plus $8 per person/equine per night) is required for winter camping (snowshoeing or skiing in). Arizona uses Mountain Standard Time year-round, except in the Navajo Nation.
Activities and Attractions
North Rim Campground is a gateway to the North Rim’s serene trails and viewpoints. The Transept Trail (1.2 miles) connects the campground to the Grand Canyon Lodge and Bright Angel Point, offering rim-hugging views. The North Kaibab Trail, accessible via the Bridle Trail (0.8 miles), descends 14.2 miles to Phantom Ranch, requiring a backcountry permit for overnight hikes. Other trails, like the Uncle Jim and Widforss, offer scenic loops with canyon vistas. The Cape Royal Scenic Drive (25 miles) features stunning overlooks like Roosevelt Point. Mule rides, ranger-led programs, and stargazing events (including the June Star Party) are available. The nearby general store and lodge provide dining, a gift shop, and a visitor center with educational exhibits.
Wildlife and Safety
The Kaibab Plateau hosts unique wildlife, including the tassel-eared Kaibab squirrel, found nowhere else. Black bears, mule deer, and elk roam the area, requiring strict food storage in bear-proof lockers to prevent encounters. “Bears are rare, but squirrels and ravens will steal anything not locked up,” warned a camper (The Dyrt, 2023). Rangers enforce compliance with citations. Trash must be disposed of in bear-proof dumpsters, and recycling is available. The 8,200–8,300-foot elevation can cause altitude issues, and weather varies from warm summer days (60–80°F) to cold nights (30–50°F), with monsoon thunderstorms (June–September) and potential snow in May or October. Check forecasts and pack rain gear and warm layers.
Campground Map
Camper Feedback
Positives
- Location and Views: Campers rave about the proximity to the canyon rim. “Steps from our site to incredible views of Transept Canyon,” said a reviewer (Tripadvisor, 2024). Sites 11, 14, 15, 16, and 18 are prized for canyon views.
- Quiet Atmosphere: The campground is notably serene. “Incredibly quiet even when full—couldn’t hear neighbors at 8:30 PM,” noted a camper (The Dyrt, 2021).
- Amenities: Clean flush toilets, drinking water, and pay showers are highlights. “Bathrooms were spotless, and the store had everything we needed,” said a reviewer (PerfectCamp, 2024).
- Staff: Rangers and hosts, like Bill, are praised for their helpfulness. “Bill helped us navigate a tricky site—top-notch host!” (Campendium, 2024).
Negatives
- Site Layout: Some sites, like 51, have poor design. “Trees blocked the pull-through, making it tough to back out,” reported a camper (Campendium, 2024). Uneven sites can challenge trailer leveling.
- Reservations: Booking is competitive. “Sites sell out in minutes—be ready at 7 AM,” advised a reviewer (Hipcamp, 2024).
- Limited Amenities: Showers and laundry may close during water restrictions. “Coin machine ate our money, and the store staff weren’t helpful,” complained a camper (PerfectCamp, 2024).
- Access: The remote location (4.5 hours from the South Rim) deters some. “Worth it, but it’s a long drive,” noted a reviewer (Yelp, 2024).
Tips for Campers
- Book Early: Reserve six months in advance on Recreation.gov at 7 AM MST. Check daily for cancellations if you miss the window.
- Choose Rim Sites: Book sites 11, 14, 15, 16, 18, or T-1 to T-6 for canyon views. Verify RV/trailer fit on Recreation.gov.
- Bring Bikes: Bikes are ideal for navigating the North Rim’s trails and roads. “Biking to Bright Angel Point was a highlight,” said a camper (Tripadvisor, 2024).
- Wildlife Safety: Store all scented items in bear-proof lockers. A padlock adds security against theft or animals.
- Plan for Weather: Pack for cool nights, rain, and potential snow in May or October. A tarp or rainfly is essential during monsoons.
- Arrive Early: Check-in is at 12 PM MST; arrive early to settle in and explore nearby trails before sunset.
Overall Experience
North Rim Campground is a gem for those seeking a quieter, more intimate Grand Canyon experience. Its forested setting, rimside views, and access to trails like the Transept and North Kaibab make it a hiker’s paradise. The campground’s clean facilities, friendly staff, and proximity to the lodge enhance its appeal, though competitive reservations and occasional site layout issues are drawbacks. “The North Rim’s solitude and stunning vistas make this the best NPS campground I’ve stayed at,” summed up a camper (Tripadvisor, 2024). With early booking, careful site selection, and preparation for the remote location, North Rim Campground offers an unforgettable escape into the Grand Canyon’s majestic beauty.
Sources: Recreation.gov, NPS.gov, The Dyrt, Tripadvisor, Campendium, PerfectCamp, Hipcamp, GrandCanyonTrust.org, JamesKaiser.com