Ballarat California – Inyo County Ghost Town

Ballarat, California, is a near-ghost town and unincorporated community in Inyo County, located in the Panamint Valley at the base of the Panamint Range, west of Death Valley National Park (elevation about 1,079 feet).

Ballarat, California - Marriedtofilm at English Wikipedia - Transferred from en.wikipedia to Commons by Malafaya using CommonsHelper.
Ballarat, California

It was founded in 1897 (some sources say 1896) as a supply and recreation hub for mines in the surrounding canyons, particularly after discoveries in the Panamint Range. The site had earlier use: Post Office Springs, about a quarter-mile south, served as a reliable water source since the 1850s for emigrants, prospectors, and even outlaws who used a mesquite tree mail drop in the 1870s.

The town was named after the famous gold-mining city of Ballarat in Victoria, Australia, reportedly at the suggestion of Australian immigrant George Riggins.

Heyday (1897–1905)

In its peak years, Ballarat had a population of 400–500. It functioned primarily as a provisioning and entertainment center for miners rather than a mining town itself. The nearby Ratcliff (or Radcliffe) Mine in Pleasant Canyon was a major producer (about 15,000 tons of gold ore from 1898–1903), and the broader area yielded nearly a million dollars in gold.

Known businesses and services in its boom period included:

  • Seven saloons (a key attraction for relaxation and “frolic”).
  • Three hotels.
  • Wells Fargo station (important for transport and finance).
  • Post office (opened 1897; closed 1917).
  • School.
  • Jail and morgue.
  • A general store or supply stores and a blacksmith shop (earlier establishments).
  • No churches were reported.

It was described as a “jumping-off place” for prospectors heading into the mountains, with adobe structures, burros, and a rough, lawless character typical of late-19th/early-20th-century desert mining camps.

Decline

The town declined rapidly after the Ratcliff Mine suspended operations around 1903–1905, as other local mines played out. By 1917, the post office closed, and Ballarat became a virtual ghost town, with only a few die-hard prospectors remaining.

A handful of “desert rats” lingered into the 20th century. In the 1960s, developer Neil Cummins bought land and attempted a revival (including building a general store), envisioning tourism, but it did not materialize on a large scale.

Later History and Notable Residents

  • Seldom Seen Slim (Charles Ferge, c. 1881–1968): The town’s most famous long-term resident and often its sole inhabitant from around 1918 until his death. A classic solitary prospector, he lived without modern amenities (claiming not to have bathed for years except by splashing water outdoors) in a trailer or Volkswagen after adobe buildings deteriorated. He was known for his colorful quotes, such as “Me lonely? Hell no! I’m half coyote and half wild burro,” which appears on his grave in Ballarat’s Boot Hill cemetery (the 28th and last burial there). A peak in the area is named after him.
  • Frank “Shorty” Harris (1857–1934): Legendary Death Valley prospector (“single blanket-jackass prospector”) who discovered major strikes like the Bullfrog district. He lived in Ballarat off and on (including in the old schoolhouse) until near his death and is buried elsewhere in Death Valley beside friend James Dayton.
  • Other figures: Assayer Fred Grey (long-term resident); Chris Wicht (kept a saloon open longer); gunman “Jim” Sherlock; George Novak (prospector and later caretaker with son Rock).

Modern era (late 20th–21st century): The town has had minimal permanent residents. Rock (or Rocky) Novak, son of George, served as caretaker/”mayor”/sheriff/judge/undertaker for years (moving there around 2004), running a bare-bones general store/museum selling sodas and sharing history, operating a small motel, and maintaining vintage items (including a truck linked to the Manson Family). He has since moved to nearby Trona, with the store occasionally managed by others. Ballarat now has around 1–2 full-time residents at times.

It remains a stop for tourists, four-wheelers, and campers (up to hundreds in winter). Nearby connections include the Manson Family’s use of Barker Ranch (south of town) in the late 1960s, with some graffiti and a reputed truck in Ballarat. The 1969 film Easy Rider filmed a scene here. A 1971 hippie festival led to a hepatitis outbreak. It has also appeared in other media.

Today, visitors see adobe ruins, the cemetery, the operating (or intermittently operating) general store, and desert scenery. It is privately owned in part and serves as a gateway to Panamint Range explorations.

Ballarat exemplifies the boom-and-bust cycle of Western mining towns—brief prosperity followed by abandonment, sustained only by hardy individuals and passing travelers. Its isolation and colorful characters have made it a enduring symbol of the Mojave Desert’s rugged history.

Notoriety

In 1968 and 1969, Charles Manson and his “family” moved into Barker Ranch. The town of Ballarat was Mansons last link to civilization and served as a supply source for his desert exploits. Not to caste the town with the murderer, the town also supplied the arresting officers who raided Barker Ranch and subsequently arrested Manson and his family.

“Shorty” Harris founder of Harrisburg, photographed in Ballarat, California
“Shorty” Harris founder of Harrisburg, photographed in Ballarat, California

Time has taken its tole on the builds of the adobe buildings. Wind and water are literally melting the builds back into the desert.

Today, Ballarat is the subject of a few odd television shows and again made headlines with the Ballarat Bandit. In 2003, George Robert Johnston camped around Ballarat and Death Valley. During this time, he committed burglaries before leading investigators on a chase across the desert.

Ballarat Personalities

Charles Ferge "Seldom Seen Slim"

Charles Ferge “Seldom Seen Slim” – A Ballarat Prospector

Charles Ferge "Seldom Seen Slim" Charles Ferge “Seldom Seen Slim” (c. 1881–1968) was one of the last of the classic “desert rats”—solitary prospectors who embodied…
The booking photo of the dimunutive Charles Milles Maddox. Inyo County October 1969.

Charles Milles Maddox

Charles Milles Maddox AKA Charlie Manson was a serial killer and most of the bad parts of the Old Testament sort of criminal. He briefly…
Frank "Shorty" Harris

Frank “Shorty” Harris

Frank “Shorty” Harris (1857–1934) was one of the most colorful and enduring figures of the American desert West—a short-statured, hard-drinking, single-blanket jackass prospector whose 1904…
A police sketch of the Ballarat Bandit - George Robert Johnston

George Robert Johnston – The Ballarat Bandit

A police sketch of the Ballarat Bandit - George Robert Johnston George Robert Johnston, known as the Ballarat Bandit, was a petty criminal who lead…
Pete Aguereberry

Pete Aguereberry – A Panamint Valley Miner

Jean Pierre “Pete” Aguereberry (1874–1945), universally known as Pete Aguereberry, was a Basque-born prospector and miner whose four-decade solitary vigil at the Eureka Mine in…

4×4 Trails near Ballarat

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Indian Ranch Road

The hottest place on earth, Death Valley National Park is on the order with California and Nevada Indian Ranch Road is a scenic, graded dirt…
The hottest place on earth, Death Valley National Park is on the order with California and Nevada

Jail Canyon Road

The hottest place on earth, Death Valley National Park is on the order with California and Nevada Jail Canyon Road is a rugged, scenic 4WD…

References

Frank “Shorty” Harris

Frank “Shorty” Harris (1857–1934) was one of the most colorful and enduring figures of the American desert West—a short-statured, hard-drinking, single-blanket jackass prospector whose 1904 discovery of the Bullfrog Mine in Nevada’s Bullfrog Hills triggered one of the last great gold rushes of the early 20th century and gave birth to the boomtown of Rhyolite in Nye County. Though he never grew rich from his strikes and cheerfully sold or gambled away most of his claims, Harris became a living legend in the Death Valley region. His later 1905 gold find with Pete Aguereberry at Harrisburg in the Panamint Mountains further cemented his reputation as a man who could “smell gold.” For more than three decades he wandered the harsh terrain of Death Valley (California) and adjacent Nye County, Nevada, embodying the romantic, footloose desert rat long after the major booms had faded.

Frank “Shorty” Harris

Early Life and Wanderings

Born Frank Harris on July 21, 1857 (some accounts say 1856), near Providence, Rhode Island, he was orphaned at age seven when both parents died. Raised by an aunt who treated him harshly, he ran away at nine to work in textile mills. In the late 1870s, at about age twenty, he rode the rails west seeking fortune in the mines. Standing only five feet four inches tall, he earned the nickname “Shorty” early on.

Harris chased every major rush of the era: Leadville, Colorado; Tombstone, Arizona; the Coeur d’Alene district in Idaho; and others. He reached the Death Valley country in the 1880s–1890s, prospecting around Ballarat, California, and later the great Nevada booms at Tonopah and Goldfield. Like most old-time prospectors, he arrived too late for the richest ground and never accumulated lasting wealth. What he did accumulate was an encyclopedic knowledge of the desert, a gift for tall tales, and a reputation for generosity mixed with wild exaggeration.

The Bullfrog Discovery and Nye County Legacy (1904)

Harris’s most famous strike came on August 9, 1904, in the Bullfrog Hills of southern Nye County, Nevada, just east of Death Valley. Traveling with partner Ernest “Ed” Cross, he was camped at Buck Springs (near present-day Beatty) after leaving the Keane Wonder Mine. While chasing stray burros one morning, Shorty stubbed his toe on a rock, looked down, and saw a greenish quartz ledge speckled with visible gold—“jewelry stone” so rich it assayed at up to $3,000 per ton. The pair named their claim the Bullfrog Mine because the ore’s color reminded them of a frog’s back.

Word spread like wildfire. Within days a stampede erupted from Goldfield and Tonopah; newspapers called it one of the wildest rushes in Western history. New towns sprang up almost overnight—Rhyolite, Bullfrog, Amargosa City, and others. Rhyolite, founded in 1905 on the slopes below the discovery, quickly became Nye County’s premier mining metropolis. At its peak (1906–1908) it boasted 5,000–10,000 residents, three railroads, a stock exchange, opera house, ice plant, and concrete buildings that still stand today as ghostly ruins. The Bullfrog Mining District produced nearly $1.7 million in gold between 1907 and 1910, though production declined sharply afterward.

Characteristically, Harris and Cross sold their interests early and cheaply. Shorty reportedly gambled or drank away much of his share (one account says he traded it for $1,000 and a mule). He never profited from the district he helped create, yet he remained proud of the strike that “made Rhyolite grow like a mushroom.” His role in Nye County mining history is foundational: the Bullfrog rush revived interest in the Amargosa-Death Valley borderlands and briefly turned a remote corner of Nye County into a symbol of Nevada’s final great mining boom.

One night, when I was pretty well lit up, a man by the name of Bryan took me to his room and put me to bed. The next morning, when I woke up, I had a bad headache and wanted more liquor. Bryan had left several bottles of whiskey on a chair beside the bed and locked the door. I helped myself and went back to sleep. That was the start of the longest jag I ever went on; it lasted six days. When I came to, Bryan showed me a bill of sale for the Bullfrog, and the price was only $25,000. I got plenty sore, but it didn’t do any good. There was my signature on the paper and beside it, the signatures of seven witnesses and the notary’s seal. And I felt a lot worse when I found out that Ed had been paid a hundred and twenty-five thousand for his half, and had lit right out for Lone Pine, where he got married.

Frank “Shorty” Harris
Touring Topics: Magazine of the American Automobile Association of Southern California
October 1930

Harrisburg and Continued Death Valley Prospecting (1905 onward)

In June 1905, still riding the wave of his Bullfrog fame, Harris teamed with French-Basque prospector Pete Aguereberry. While crossing the Panamint Mountains toward Ballarat for the Fourth of July, they found free gold on a ridge in what became known as Harrisburg Flats. Pete staked the north side (Eureka Mine) and Shorty the south. A tent camp of several hundred people briefly flourished before fading; the site was first called “Harrisberry” in Shorty’s honor, then Harrisburg. Aguereberry eventually won legal control of the Eureka and worked it alone for decades, while Harris moved on.

Harris continued roaming the Death Valley region for the rest of his life—prospecting, guiding occasional visitors, and living the minimalist existence of a “single blanket jackass prospector.” He preferred the freedom of the desert to the comforts of town, often traveling with a string of burros and little else.

Personality, Later Years, and Death

Shorty was famous for his wit, storytelling, and love of saloons. He claimed to have attended every major rush since the 1880s and delighted in recounting (and embellishing) his adventures. Despite his rough edges, he was well-liked and generous. In his final years he lived quietly in a cabin near Big Pine, California.

Ill for some time, Frank “Shorty” Harris died in his sleep on November 10, 1934, at age 77. True to his wishes, he was buried in Death Valley near the grave of his friend James Dayton. His simple marker carries the epitaph he requested:

“Here lies Shorty Harris, a single blanket jackass prospector.”

Legacy in Nye County and Death Valley

Though he left no fortune, Shorty Harris’s discoveries shaped the historical landscape of both regions. In Nye County, the ruins of Rhyolite and the scattered remnants of Bullfrog stand as monuments to the rush he ignited. In Death Valley National Park, the Harrisburg site and Aguereberry Camp preserve the memory of his partnership with Pete Aguereberry. His name appears in trail guides, park literature, and countless desert histories. More than any bank account, Shorty valued the freedom of the open desert and the camaraderie of fellow prospectors. In an era of corporate mining, he represented the last generation of lone wanderers who opened the final frontiers of the American West.

“I hear that Frisco is a ghost town now—abandoned and the buildings falling to ruin. That is what happened to many of the towns where I worked in the early days, but nobody then would have thought it was possible. Even now, it’s hard for me to believe that owls are roosting over those old bars where we lined up for drinks, and sagebrush is growing in the streets.”

Frank Shorty Harris

“almost as hell-roaring a place as Leadville. The boys were all decorated with six-guns and believe me, they knew how to use them. The handiest on the draw stayed in town, but those that were too slow made a one-way trip to Boot-Hill

Frank Shorty Harris – On Tombstone in 1885

Articles Tagged Shorty Harris

One of the few remaining structures in Bullfrog, Nevada - Photo by James L Rathbun

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Rhyolite, Nevada photo by James L Rathbun

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Resources

One Tree Hill, A trip to the U2 Joshua Tree

A trip to the U2 Joshua Tree brought back a life time of memories. There was never a point in time that I was not aware of Joshua Tree’s.  Growing up in Southern California, they are a common site in the high desert and after all there is a National Park named after them.  Many nights I have spent camping in the national park and asking my dad about the Joshua Trees.  They are just so weird.   Their limbs twisted in the wind.  They thrive in the harsh desert environment, yet don’t offer much shade.  The are a symbol of the desert southwest, and perhaps would be THE symbol of the desert south west if not for the saguaro cactus.

U2's Joshua Tree - 2016
U2’s Joshua Tree – 2016
The original Joshua Tree of the Us Cover. Photo made Dec. 19, 1994 |Source= Joho345 – @U2 (www.atu2.com)
The original Joshua Tree of the Us Cover. Photo made Dec. 19, 1994 |Source= Joho345 – @U2 (www.atu2.com)

I remember exactly where I was when I was introduced to the Irish Band U2 by a close friend of mine.  Back then, they were the Irish Rock Band U2.  I was introduced to them watching a video tape copy of “Under a Blood Red Sky” and forever fell in love with my Irish compatriots.  In 1987, U2 released there next album “The Joshua Tree” which also coincided with my passing the exam for my drivers license.  I wore out by original tape and its copy driving the city of Pasadena to and from high school.  

The album tore through the consciousness of the United States and this Irish boy had a little more pride in his heritage.  The best part was that the album was named after and predominately featured photographs of the iconic image of the desert.

In May, 1987 my friend invited me to a trip to Death Valley.   As his father drove  across the desert that afternoon, my friend pointed  out the window and yelled, “There is ‘THE’ Joshua Tree”.  By the time I turned around in my seat, the tree was off in the distance.  I could not tell from the angle and distance, but the area looked about right.  We drove on, the sounds of an Irish Harmonic flowing through the speakers.  I would soon forget this conversation, a foot note of my past.

I always wanted to see the Joshua Tree of u2.  Before the internet  it was not easy to find places such as this.  They don’t put this information on maps.  Rumor and stories filled the void.  I never asked, but over the years I heard that the site of U2’s Joshua tree was not near the National Park.  I heard that someone lite it on fire.  I heard it died.  Many stories told of unprepared people dying while searching for the Joshua Tree.  All just rumors.

I never thought about the Joshua tree site until I started Destination4x4.com.  After about 10 minutes searching on the Internet, I found it.  Sadly the rumor it died proved to be true.  But then an odd thing happened.  Like many lost places of the Mojave, there is a small make shift monument to U2 at the site of the fallen tree.  The dead tree is still there, fallen to the earth around 2000 and being consumed by the harsh desert climate.  The site is located just off the CA Highway 190 between Lone Pine and Death Valley.

Within a year, of finding the Joshua Tree site, I found myself driving along the highway 190 into Lone Pine, CA.  There is no marker to the site, and no paved road to follow.  The site of the Joshua Tree is located about 100 years off of the road, which runs parallel to the highway.  After some back road creative navigation, I saw a glint of metal and the downed icon about .5 miles in front of me.

You have found what your looking for monument located at the site of U2s Joshua Tree.
You have found what your looking for monument located at the site of U2s Joshua Tree.

As I walked towards the dead Joshua Tree, I could not help but think about how silly this endeavor was.   A grown man taking his family to see a dead tree. My inner sound tracked played “Running to Stand Still” as I stepped back into the past.  Memories of high school came flooding back.  The surrounding hills morphed into the album cover.  I recalled a conversation between me and a lost friend on the highway not too far from here where he was convinced he saw this tree.  I now know he did see it.

Like many places in the Mojave, a make shift monuments lies on the site.  Undoubtedly updated with each new visitor who like me hunt down the obscure.  It is a matter of time until  a passing windstorm, dry climate and time remove any remnants of the Joshua tree.  Oddly enough, it was here alone with my small family that I understood what I what I wanted to do with Destination4x4.com.  The four us jumped back into the jeep.  I loaded up the Joshua Tree on my phone and played “Where the streets have no name” as we drove off for our next adventure.

The U2 Joshua Tree 2016
The U2 Joshua Tree 2016

Update

Just under a year after our visit to the Joshua Tree, for our wedding anniversary, Heather and I saw the band play their songs from the dessert at the Rose Bowl in Pasadena on May 20th, 2017.  I found out later that I had a case of double Pneumonia, but would not miss this for the world. The concert was a celebration of their music and the desert landscape which i love.

U2, Rose Bowl, Pasadena CA 5/20/2017
U2, Rose Bowl, Pasadena CA 5/20/2017

Desert Marigolds (Baileya multiradiata)

Desert Marigolds located off the Old Mojave Road.
Desert Marigolds photographed near the Old Mojave Road.

Biological Report: Desert Marigold

Scientific Taxonomy

  • Kingdom: Plantae
  • Clade: Tracheophytes
  • Clade: Angiosperms
  • Clade: Eudicots
  • Clade: Asterids
  • Order: Asterales
  • Family: Asteraceae (Aster or Sunflower family)
  • Genus: Baileya
  • Species: Baileya multiradiata Harv. & A. Gray ex A. Gray

Common names include desert marigold, showy desert marigold, paper daisy, desert baileya, and hierba amarilla. Synonyms include Baileya australis, Baileya multiradiata var. nudicaulis, Baileya multiradiata var. thurberi, and Baileya thurberi. The genus is named after American botanist Jacob Whitman Bailey; “multiradiata” refers to the many-rayed flower heads.

Description

Desert marigold is a native, sun-loving biennial or short-lived perennial forb/herb that typically grows 12–18 inches (30–52 cm) tall and spreads 4–12 inches (10–30 cm) wide, forming attractive mound-shaped clumps. The basal leaves are grayish-green, woolly (covered in soft white hairs that help retain moisture), pinnately lobed to entire, and clustered at the base (4–10 cm long). The stems are mostly leafless and branched in the lower half. Flower heads are solitary, daisy-like composites borne on long, naked stalks (10–32 cm). Each head measures about 1.5–2 inches (4–5 cm) across with 25–50 bright yellow ray florets (the “petals”) surrounding a central disk of 25–50+ yellow disk florets. As the flowers age, the rays fade and become papery, giving rise to the common name “paper daisy.” The plant is adapted to arid conditions and is distinguished from similar species like woolly desert marigold (Baileya pleniradiata) by its taller stature, longer bloom period, and greater abundance.

Blooms

The showy, bright-yellow composite flower heads bloom intermittently from March (or April) through November, and can continue year-round in favorable conditions with adequate moisture. Flowering is sporadic but prolific, often triggered by rainfall, producing impressive mounds of nearly solid yellow. The long-lasting blooms turn papery and persist on the plant as they age. This extended blooming period makes it one of the most reliable and conspicuous desert wildflowers.

Range and Distribution

Desert marigold is native to the Mojave, Sonoran, and Chihuahuan deserts of the southwestern United States and northern Mexico. In the U.S., it occurs in Arizona, California, Nevada, New Mexico, Texas, and Utah (primarily at lower to mid-elevations). In Mexico, it extends into states including Sonora, Chihuahua, Coahuila, Durango, and Aguascalientes. It grows on sandy or gravelly (often alkaline) soils in washes, roadsides, rocky slopes, sandy plains, mesas, and semidesert grasslands, from near sea level up to about 5,000–6,500 ft (100–1,981 m). It thrives in full sun and well-drained soils across desert ecosystems.

This hardy, drought-tolerant wildflower is an iconic component of southwestern desert landscapes, valued for its cheerful blooms and adaptability.

This yellow wild flower is also known as:

  • Desert Marigold
  • Showy Desert Marigold
  • Paper Daisy
  • Desert Baileya

Darwin Falls

The waterfalls of Darwin are located on the western edge of Death Valley National Park near the settlement of Panamint Springs, California. Although there exists a similarly named Darwin Falls Wilderness adjacent to the waterfall, the waterfalls themselves are located in and administered by Death Valley National Park and the National Park Service.

Darwin Falls is a nice hike near Death Valley National Park, CA
Darwin Falls is a nice hike near Death Valley National Park, CA

There are several falls, but they are mainly divided into the upper and lower with a small grotto in between. At a combined 80 feet (24 m), it is the highest waterfall in the park.

The hike into Darwin falls is rather short and easy terrain to reach the shallow pools which form under the water fall. There are, however, multiple creek The narrow canyon does contain Cottonwood trees and willows and offers some shade from the sun as you approach the waterfalls. The creek and pools in the area, like almost every other water source in the desert form an oasis of life in the desert. Birds and amphibians are common.

My trip on the early spring found no other hikers on the trail and a serene place to visit. It is easy to image that even this rather easy hike could be quite rough when the summer sun scorches the landscape and temperatures climb.

There is no swimming at Darwin Falls and the creek is a source of drinking water.