Mojave Goldfish

Over Presidents day weekend, my wife and I were travelling back from Big Bear, CA to our house after a visit with family towards our home in Las Vegas.  Frequently, my wife will point out an old road or mine and comment that we need to take that trail someday.  During out drive home, we were talking about the mining district in Mountain Pass and the Evening Star mine.  On this journey, we chanced upon the ultra rare Mojave Goldfish.

This is one of the great reasons for owning a 4×4 and the Mojave Desert is a prime location to explore.

A live stock watering trough in the Mojave Desert.. Photograph by James L Rathbun
A live stock watering trough in the Mojave Desert. Photograph by James L Rathbun

So, we exited the I-15 travelling north on Baily road near the Kokoweef mine.  Typically, I have a route mapped out ahead of time, but a spur of the moment decision left our route to happenstance.   We drove straight off the off ramp and headed up the hill.  Immediately I sensed the I took the wrong route, but since we were exploring I just drove on, you never know what you will find.  Soon, we found a private property sign, and opt towards a road to the left.  I found 4×4 low in the transfer case and we climbed a short hill.  Upon cresting the hill, I noticed something metal down the the left.  I road the gears down in low until we reached the small canyon where I made a tight left towards the metallic object I saw from the top of the hill.

Within a quarter of a mile, I found an juniper tree with a metal water trough.  These are not uncommon in the mojave and can be found throughout the dessert.  I parked the jeep to investigate and was shocked…

The rare Mojave Gold fish in its natual environment. Photo by James L Rathbun
The rare Mojave Gold fish in its natural environment. Photo by James L Rathbun

We stumbled upon Goldfish, in the Mojave Desert and these things were pretty big.  I mean, I have eaten trout smaller than some of these.  Goldfish are used to keep the algae in check inside the water trough.  An elegant solution to a problem I didn’t think existed, but that makes sense.  The water trough was plumbed with a PVC pipe to bring the spring water to the trough.  The overflow, did just that and the rocks on either wide of the trough edge allow for animals to escape the tank.  An endless supply of fresh water would keep the urea concentrations down, so the fish grow into their environment.

My biggest question is that in a remote area with a lot of preditors, why are these fish alive?  I thought that an oportunistic coyote, fox or raven would make quick work of this exposed tank, but these large fish prove they have been here for time.  Regardless a very fun find and a true 4×4 destination.

Hole in the Rock

Recognized on the National Register of Historic Places, the Hole in the Rock trail is an old Mormon trail in Utah that was used to establish colonies on the east side of the Colorado River in 1879. The Hole in the Rock from which the trail is named, is a narrow canyon from the rim of the canyon down into the Colorado River Valley. This canyon provided access to the Colorado River and the much needed water require to survive in these remote locations. Months were spent widening the narrow canyon to allow “safe” passage of all the wagons and cattle.

Hole in the wall trail in Escalante, Utah
Hole in the wall trail in Escalante, Utah

The original trail was bisected when the Glen Canyon damn bottled the Colorado River and started to fill up Lake Powell in 1966. However, thE road continues to exist and allows access to the Escalante Canyon system, along with access to the Devils Garden, numerous slot canyons and lots of back country hiking and camping opportunities.

Devils Garden off the Hole in the Rock Trail, Lake Powell, Utah
Devils Garden off the Hole in the Rock Trail, Lake Powell, Utah

The road passes between the Kaiparowits Plateau and the Escalante River. This area is a labyrinth of roads and trails.  The trail leaves the small town of Escalante and travels 44 miles south along a sandy road.

Camping at Dance Hall Rock, Hole in the Rock trail
Camping at Dance Hall Rock, Hole in the Rock trail

Do not underestimate how cool this area is to visit. The rock formations, remote locations and sunsets are beyond comprehension. One can get the feeling of isolation on just a short visit.

Escalante Canyon, Utah
Escalante Canyon, Utah

Hole in the Rock Trail Map

Valley of the Gods

Valley of the Gods is a beautiful sandstone valley and located in the South East corner of Utah near Mexican Hat. alley of the Gods is the lesser known northern extension of Monument Valley and is frequently confused with Monument Valley. The valley is carved out from a layer of eroded sandstone, and features two large table top mesa with are long and narrow in shape. These mesas appear like ship sails again a sea of clear blue skies.  

The seventeen mile trail loops north from highway 163 and then travels back the the south west to connect to highway 261 and recommended for high clearance vehicles.

Valley of the Gods, Utah
Large format photograph take in Valley of the Gods, Utah provided by James L Rathbun

Down towards to the of the valley, two beautiful spires reminded me of sailing ships in the desert. The road winds between them to provide for an amazing drive.

Unlike Monument Valley which is controlled by the Navajo Nation, the valley is managed by the Bureau of Land Management and does not contain any services or campgrounds, or tribal restrictions. There are several small camping spots on the loop and when I visited in October the number of people seems to be quite low.

Valley of the Gods trail map

White Mountain Road

Locathed in Inyo County, the White Mountain Road is a high altitude road that travels north from Highway 168 out of Big Pine and into the Bristle Cone Pine Forest of the White Mountains.  The road is partial paved as far as the Schulman Grove visitors center and beyond the road is graded dirt.

Bristle Cone grove located high in the White Mountains.
Bristle Cone grove located high in the White Mountains.

As the White Mountain roads winds north, it follows the ridge line of the White Mountains climbing higher in elevation and offers up amazing vistas of Owens Valley to the west.

A Bristlecone Pine (not the oldest) located in the White Mountains, CA
A Bristlecone Pine (not the oldest) located in the White Mountains, CA

The bristlecone pine tree is found in this mountain range, and is the oldest living thing on the planet and are known to live 5,000 years.  The bristlecone pine trees live in groves in arid sub alpine mountain tops in the western United States, including the White Mountains in California and around Mount Charleston just north of Las Vegas.  The harsh environment, high elevations over 12,000 above sea level, dry conditions, high winds twist a bend the trees and they slowly grow across the millennium.

Bristlecone pine wood contorted with age and environment.
Bristlecone pine wood contorted with age and environment.

The very high elevation takes its toll on car and driver a like. While climbing the route, the power of the jeep was quite noticeable. I did not notice the elevation until I got out for a bit of a hike among the Bristle Cones. Once must be careful to catch their breathe, and the suns intensity was rather noticable.

Over 11000 feet above sea level
Over 11000 feet above sea level

White Mountain Road Map

Columbus Nevada – Esmeralda County Ghost Town

Downtown Columbus, Nevada, late 1870's.
Downtown Columbus, Nevada, late 1870’s.

Spanish miners discovered silver in the area in 1863. A small mining camp was established in the area which became Columbus Nevada in 1865. In 1866 a stamp mill was relocated from nearby Aurora. A quartz mill was opened at what was considered a prefect location, due to the proximity with adequate water.  

In 1871 borax was discovered and developed by William Troop in a salt marsh.  A swift reaction to this discovery saw four separate companies harvesting This discovery dramatically increase the towns importance and opportunities. The site later became known as the Columbus Marsh.

Columbus, Nevada 1870s - Stanley W. Paher, Nevada Ghost Towns and Mining Camps, (1970), Howell North, p 427, Mrs. Estelle Funke Collection
Columbus, Nevada 1870s – Stanley W. Paher, Nevada Ghost Towns and Mining Camps, (1970), Howell North, p 427, Mrs. Estelle Funke Collection

The town reached its zenith, when, in 1875 when the site boast about 1,000 people. A newspaper “The Borax Miner”, post office, schools and businesses where started support and profit from the population. During this time, the Borax plant ran continuously, 24 hours per day eight months of the year. There sites also supported a daily stage service with Candelaria and Fish Lake Valley.

After 1875, the Fish Lake borax planet was build by the Pacific Borax Company some 30 miles from the town. By 1880, the population collapsed to 100. 

As with many such mining towns, the end came quickly when borax mining ceased in 1881.

Columbus Nevada is located in Esmerelda County, Nevada.

Town Summary

NameColumbus
LocationEsmeralda County, Nevada
Latitude, Longitude38.110278, -118.019167
Population1000
Elevation4560
NewspaperBorax Miner Oct 18, 1873; Feb 20, 1875 – Sept 15, 1877
(missing: Aug 14, Sept 11, Dec 24, 1875; May 27, Sept 23, Dec 9, 1876; Feb 10, Mar 17, Apr 1, 21, 28, May 5, 1877)
Post Office

Columbus Trail Map

Resources