Mojave Goldfish

Over Presidents day weekend, my wife and I were travelling back from Big Bear, CA to our house after a visit with family towards our home in Las Vegas.  Frequently, my wife will point out an old road or mine and comment that we need to take that trail someday.  During out drive home, we were talking about the mining district in Mountain Pass and the Evening Star mine.  On this journey, we chanced upon the ultra rare Mojave Goldfish.

This is one of the great reasons for owning a 4×4 and the Mojave Desert is a prime location to explore.

A live stock watering trough in the Mojave Desert.. Photograph by James L Rathbun
A live stock watering trough in the Mojave Desert. Photograph by James L Rathbun

So, we exited the I-15 travelling north on Baily road near the Kokoweef mine.  Typically, I have a route mapped out ahead of time, but a spur of the moment decision left our route to happenstance.   We drove straight off the off ramp and headed up the hill.  Immediately I sensed the I took the wrong route, but since we were exploring I just drove on, you never know what you will find.  Soon, we found a private property sign, and opt towards a road to the left.  I found 4×4 low in the transfer case and we climbed a short hill.  Upon cresting the hill, I noticed something metal down the the left.  I road the gears down in low until we reached the small canyon where I made a tight left towards the metallic object I saw from the top of the hill.

Within a quarter of a mile, I found an juniper tree with a metal water trough.  These are not uncommon in the mojave and can be found throughout the dessert.  I parked the jeep to investigate and was shocked…

The rare Mojave Gold fish in its natual environment. Photo by James L Rathbun
The rare Mojave Gold fish in its natural environment. Photo by James L Rathbun

We stumbled upon Goldfish, in the Mojave Desert and these things were pretty big.  I mean, I have eaten trout smaller than some of these.  Goldfish are used to keep the algae in check inside the water trough.  An elegant solution to a problem I didn’t think existed, but that makes sense.  The water trough was plumbed with a PVC pipe to bring the spring water to the trough.  The overflow, did just that and the rocks on either wide of the trough edge allow for animals to escape the tank.  An endless supply of fresh water would keep the urea concentrations down, so the fish grow into their environment.

My biggest question is that in a remote area with a lot of preditors, why are these fish alive?  I thought that an oportunistic coyote, fox or raven would make quick work of this exposed tank, but these large fish prove they have been here for time.  Regardless a very fun find and a true 4×4 destination.

Hole in the Rock

Recognized on the National Register of Historic Places, the Hole in the Rock trail is an old Mormon trail in Utah that was used to establish colonies on the east side of the Colorado River in 1879. The Hole in the Rock from which the trail is named, is a narrow canyon from the rim of the canyon down into the Colorado River Valley. This canyon provided access to the Colorado River and the much needed water require to survive in these remote locations. Months were spent widening the narrow canyon to allow “safe” passage of all the wagons and cattle.

Hole in the wall trail in Escalante, Utah
Hole in the wall trail in Escalante, Utah

The original trail was bisected when the Glen Canyon damn bottled the Colorado River and started to fill up Lake Powell in 1966. However, thE road continues to exist and allows access to the Escalante Canyon system, along with access to the Devils Garden, numerous slot canyons and lots of back country hiking and camping opportunities.

Devils Garden off the Hole in the Rock Trail, Lake Powell, Utah
Devils Garden off the Hole in the Rock Trail, Lake Powell, Utah

The road passes between the Kaiparowits Plateau and the Escalante River. This area is a labyrinth of roads and trails.  The trail leaves the small town of Escalante and travels 44 miles south along a sandy road.

Camping at Dance Hall Rock, Hole in the Rock trail
Camping at Dance Hall Rock, Hole in the Rock trail

Do not underestimate how cool this area is to visit. The rock formations, remote locations and sunsets are beyond comprehension. One can get the feeling of isolation on just a short visit.

Escalante Canyon, Utah
Escalante Canyon, Utah

Hole in the Rock Trail Map

Valley of the Gods

Valley of the Gods is a beautiful sandstone valley and located in the South East corner of Utah near Mexican Hat. alley of the Gods is the lesser known northern extension of Monument Valley and is frequently confused with Monument Valley. The valley is carved out from a layer of eroded sandstone, and features two large table top mesa with are long and narrow in shape. These mesas appear like ship sails again a sea of clear blue skies.  

The seventeen mile trail loops north from highway 163 and then travels back the the south west to connect to highway 261 and recommended for high clearance vehicles.

Valley of the Gods, Utah
Large format photograph take in Valley of the Gods, Utah provided by James L Rathbun

Down towards to the of the valley, two beautiful spires reminded me of sailing ships in the desert. The road winds between them to provide for an amazing drive.

Unlike Monument Valley which is controlled by the Navajo Nation, the valley is managed by the Bureau of Land Management and does not contain any services or campgrounds, or tribal restrictions. There are several small camping spots on the loop and when I visited in October the number of people seems to be quite low.

Valley of the Gods trail map

Geological Report on Formation

The striking landscape of Valley of the Gods is the result of sedimentary deposition, tectonic uplift, and prolonged differential erosion over hundreds of millions of years. The primary rock unit is the Cedar Mesa Sandstone, part of the Permian-age Cutler Group (approximately 250–270 million years old). This formation reaches thicknesses of up to 1,200 feet and was deposited in a coastal environment near the shores of an ancient shallow sea that once covered much of the region during the Permian Period.

  • Depositional environment: The Cedar Mesa Sandstone originated as huge sand dunes and beach deposits along a fluctuating shoreline. It consists of cross-bedded sandstone cemented by calcium carbonate, with interspersed lenses of red siltstone. Underlying it is the older Halgaito Shale (also Permian), which formed in coastal deltas and shallow marine settings. These layers represent a transition from marine to more terrestrial conditions in western Pangea.
  • Coloration: After the ancient sea retreated, iron minerals within the sediments oxidized (reacted with oxygen), producing the characteristic rich red, orange, and purple hues visible today. Horizontal striations in the rock record millions of years of layered deposition.
  • Erosional sculpting: The Colorado Plateau’s gradual uplift (beginning tens of millions of years ago) exposed these rocks to the forces of wind, water, and ice. Differential erosion is key: the softer Halgaito Shale erodes more quickly than the resistant Cedar Mesa Sandstone above it, causing undercutting and cliff retreat. This process isolates massive buttes, spires, and pinnacles, creating the “sentinels” and mushroom-like forms seen throughout the valley. Over eons, these same forces have carved the 17-mile valley floor and surrounding features.

The valley’s geology also preserves Late Paleozoic fossils (vertebrates, plants, and invertebrates) in the Halgaito Shale and related units, offering a window into ancient coastal plain and riparian environments.

In essence, Valley of the Gods is a textbook example of Colorado Plateau geology: ancient Permian coastal sediments uplifted and exquisitely sculpted by arid-climate erosion into one of the American Southwest’s most iconic badlands.

Human History and Cultural Significance

While the rocks themselves predate humanity by hundreds of millions of years, the valley holds deep cultural meaning for Native American tribes and has seen limited Euro-American activity.

  • Indigenous connections: The Valley of the Gods is sacred to the Navajo (Diné) people. According to Navajo tradition, the towering monoliths are ancient Navajo warriors frozen in stone and time—spirits that reside in these places of power and can be appealed to for protection and strength (especially for young servicemen). The broader Bears Ears region, which once included the valley, contains over 100,000 cultural sites significant to multiple tribes, including the Navajo, Ute, and others. It features prominently in creation mythologies and is sometimes described as a “Garden of Eden” for these peoples. The area also preserves Ancestral Puebloan (Anasazi) artifacts, rock art, and ruins in the surrounding Cedar Mesa landscape.
  • Euro-American exploration and naming: The valley remained largely undeveloped and unnamed until the mid-20th century. In the 1940s, prospector Albert Christensen gave it its evocative name, comparing the dramatic sandstone formations to the gods of mythology. Early 20th-century ranchers and prospectors may have passed through the area, but it never supported major settlement.
  • Filming and recreation: Its classic “western” look made it a popular backdrop for commercials, movies, and promotions (including Marlboro ads and even video game backgrounds). The 17-mile loop road, accessible from U.S. Highway 163 or Utah State Route 261 (near the dramatic Moki Dugway switchbacks), has long drawn photographers, hikers, and off-road enthusiasts.
  • Modern protection and controversies: In 2008, the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) designated Valley of the Gods an Area of Critical Environmental Concern (ACEC) to protect its scenic values. In 2016, President Obama included it in the 1.35-million-acre Bears Ears National Monument, citing its cultural, paleontological, and natural importance. In 2017, President Trump reduced the monument by about 85%, removing the Valley of the Gods (and other areas) from monument status; it reverted to ACEC protection under BLM management. The valley remains open to the public with no entrance fees, though it prohibits campfires and limits camping to previously disturbed sites. It continues to face debates over balancing recreation, grazing, and resource protection.

Today, Valley of the Gods stands as a pristine, uncrowded gem of the Colorado Plateau—offering solitude, stunning geology, and a living connection to Native American heritage. Its formations continue to erode slowly, ensuring that future generations will witness an ever-changing landscape shaped by the same forces that created it over 250 million years ago. For visitors, a drive or hike through the valley provides both geological wonder and cultural reverence in one of Utah’s most underrated desert treasures.

White Mountain Road

Locathed in Inyo County, the White Mountain Road is a high altitude road that travels north from Highway 168 out of Big Pine and into the Bristle Cone Pine Forest of the White Mountains.  The road is partial paved as far as the Schulman Grove visitors center and beyond the road is graded dirt.

Bristle Cone grove located high in the White Mountains.
Bristle Cone grove located high in the White Mountains.

As the White Mountain roads winds north, it follows the ridge line of the White Mountains climbing higher in elevation and offers up amazing vistas of Owens Valley to the west.

A Bristlecone Pine (not the oldest) located in the White Mountains, CA
A Bristlecone Pine (not the oldest) located in the White Mountains, CA

The bristlecone pine tree is found in this mountain range, and is the oldest living thing on the planet and are known to live 5,000 years.  The bristlecone pine trees live in groves in arid sub alpine mountain tops in the western United States, including the White Mountains in California and around Mount Charleston just north of Las Vegas.  The harsh environment, high elevations over 12,000 above sea level, dry conditions, high winds twist a bend the trees and they slowly grow across the millennium.

Bristlecone pine wood contorted with age and environment.
Bristlecone pine wood contorted with age and environment.

The very high elevation takes its toll on car and driver a like. While climbing the route, the power of the jeep was quite noticeable. I did not notice the elevation until I got out for a bit of a hike among the Bristle Cones. Once must be careful to catch their breathe, and the suns intensity was rather noticable.

Over 11000 feet above sea level
Over 11000 feet above sea level

White Mountain Road Map

Henry Wade Escape Route

The Henry Wade Escape Route is an easy 4×4 trail suitable for almost any vehicle and connects highway 127 to Badwater Road. The route is usually dry and easily passable, however can be rough going in the wet. The spring wildflowers may offer amazing scenery for those who travel at this time.

Henry Wade Escape Route Monument located on Highway 127
Henry Wade Escape Route Monument located on Highway 127

Henry Wade like many men of his time, sought his fortune in California on the news of the gold discover which lead to a historic gold rush. In 1849, a group of about one hundred wagons, led by Jefferson Hunt entered Death Valley en route from Utah. The caravan was searching for a shortcut from the Old Spanish Trail to the booming gold rush of California. Soon discovered they were in real trouble, bogged down in the sane and heat of the Mojave. Several men died, which may have provided Death Valley with its name. Henry Wade led the expedition from Death Valley roughly along the trail which now bears his name and eventually found their way through Cajon Pass into Southern California. Although the exact route is debated, Henry Wade led is group out of Death Valley via the south entrance.

Harry Wade Exit Route – Some 100 wagons found themselves in Salt Lake City too late to cross the Sierra Nevada. They banded together under the name of Sand Walking Co. and started for the gold fields in California over the Old Spanish Trail. After being in Death Valley with the ill-fated 1849 caravan, Harry Wade found this exit route for his ox-drawn wagon, thereby saving his life and those of his wife and children. At this point the Wade party came upon the known Spanish Trail to Cajon Pass.

Highway Placard on Hgwy 127

Further Reading

Henry Wade Escape Route Trailmap