Big Bear, CA
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Swansea, Arizona – La Paz County Ghost Town
Swansea, Arizona, is a well-preserved ghost town in La Paz County in western Arizona, known for its copper mining history. It lies in a remote desert area, roughly 30 miles from Parker and accessible via challenging dirt roads. Today, it is managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) as a historic site featuring adobe and brick ruins, mine remnants, and foundations that illustrate early 20th-century mining life.
Early Prospecting and Development (1860s–1900s)
Prospecting in the Swansea area began around 1862, when three prospectors explored the region and found copper and silver deposits. However, the remote location, lack of reliable transportation, and high costs limited large-scale operations for decades. Early mining was sporadic, with some silver-lead activity in the late 19th century that tapered off by the 1880s as richer ore bodies were exhausted.
Major development required better infrastructure. In 1904, the Arizona and California Railroad began construction from Wickenburg to Parker, opening opportunities for shipping ore. Miners Newton Evans and Thomas Jefferson Carrigan, along with others, secured investment and developed the site. The claims were consolidated under the Clara Consolidated Gold and Copper Mining Company (sometimes referred to as Clara Gold and Copper).
The camp was initially called Signal. By the end of 1908, construction included a 350-ton capacity smelter (later expanded), a 3.5-mile water pipeline from the Bill Williams River, and hoists for multiple mine shafts. The town was renamed Swansea after the Welsh port city where ore had previously been shipped for smelting.
Boom Years (1909–1910s)
Swansea was officially established around 1909 (just before Arizona achieved statehood in 1912). A post office opened on March 25, 1909. By that year, the population reached about 500, supported by mining, smelting, and related services.
Key infrastructure included:
- The Arizona & Swansea Railroad (about 21 miles long), which connected to the main line at Bouse and began operations around 1910, enabling efficient ore transport.
- A larger smelter (reportedly up to 700 tons capacity in some accounts) built on-site to process copper locally rather than shipping raw ore overseas.
- Housing, stores, and other amenities in a classic company town setup.
The town reflected the optimism and speculation of the era. Investors promoted it aggressively, leading to substantial (sometimes excessive) infrastructure investment aimed at impressing backers rather than purely optimizing operations.
Decline and Abandonment (1910s–1940s)
The boom was short-lived. By 1911, the Clara Consolidated company faced financial troubles, leading to mine closures and restructuring. New owners restarted operations, but copper prices fluctuated. The town survived World War I but declined sharply afterward as prices dropped.
The post office closed on June 28, 1924. By the 1930s, the population had largely dispersed, and the mines shut down for good around 1937. Limited activity may have continued into the early 1940s before full abandonment. A few hardy prospectors lingered, but Swansea became a true ghost town.
Later History and Preservation
The site’s remoteness helped preserve its ruins better than many other ghost towns. It has been designated an Arizona archaeological site and is protected by the BLM. In the 1970s, it served as a filming location (e.g., for Day of the Wolves). Visitors today can explore remnants of buildings, mine shafts, and the smelter area, though caution is advised due to unstable structures and desert hazards.
Significance
Swansea exemplifies the rise-and-fall pattern of many Western mining towns: discovery, railroad-enabled boom, over-speculation, market volatility, and bust. Its copper focus tied it to broader industrial demands of the early 20th century. Unlike flashier gold or silver towns, Swansea’s story highlights the engineering challenges of desert mining, including water supply and transportation. It stands as one of Arizona’s more intact ghost towns, offering insights into frontier mining life, company towns, and the economic realities of resource extraction.
Visiting Notes: Access is via high-clearance vehicles recommended; check BLM resources for current conditions. It remains a popular but respectful destination for history enthusiasts and off-road adventurers.
Palace Saloon Shootout – October 23, 1904
In the early 20th century, Arizona Territory was transitioning from the lawless frontier era of the 1880s into a more settled period, though pockets of outlaw activity, cattle rustling, smuggling, and armed robbery persisted, especially near the Mexican border. The Arizona Rangers, a territorial mounted police force established in 1901, played a key role in combating this lawlessness. Composed of skilled lawmen and marksmen, the Rangers operated across the territory with broad authority.
Tucson, a growing city and Pima County seat, retained many characteristics of its Wild West past, including numerous saloons that served as social hubs, gambling dens, and occasional sites of violence. The Palace Saloon, located on Congress Street, was one such establishment.
The Incident
On the night of October 23, 1904—half an hour before midnight—Joe Bostwick, a would-be robber, entered the Palace Saloon through the rear door. His face was concealed by a red bandana with eyeholes, and he brandished a long-barreled Colt .45 revolver.
Bostwick ordered the bartender, card dealers, and the roughly eight customers present to raise their hands and move into a side room. He then moved toward the craps table to seize the scattered money. One customer managed to slip out the front door undetected.
Outside on Congress Street, the escaping patron encountered Arizona Ranger Sergeant Harry C. Wheeler, who had just left nearby Wanda’s Restaurant. The man urgently warned Wheeler of the holdup. Wheeler, a crack shot with a reputation for coolness under pressure, calmly replied, “All right. That’s what I’m here for.”
Wheeler drew his single-action Colt .45 and approached the front door of the saloon. Bostwick spotted the lawman and whirled to fire. Wheeler was faster, firing first. His shot grazed Bostwick’s forehead above the right eye. Bostwick returned fire wildly. Wheeler then fired a second, fatal shot that struck Bostwick in the right side of the chest. The robber collapsed mortally wounded to the saloon floor.
The entire confrontation was brief and decisive, typical of the close-quarters gunfights that defined frontier law enforcement.
Aftermath and Wheeler’s Response
Wheeler expressed regret over the necessity of the shooting but showed no hesitation about his actions. In an interview with the Tucson Citizen, he stated: “I am sorry that this happened, but it was either his life or mine, and if I hadn’t been just a little quicker on the draw than he was, I might be in his position now.”
The incident brought Wheeler significant public attention and helped solidify his reputation as an effective and fearless Arizona Ranger. He would go on to have a distinguished career, later serving as a captain in the Rangers and eventually as sheriff of Cochise County. He was involved in other notable shootouts, including one in Benson in 1907.
Significance
The Palace Saloon Shootout represents one of the last notable examples of classic Old West-style gunfighting in an urban setting in Arizona Territory. It highlighted the ongoing role of the Arizona Rangers in maintaining order during a time of rapid modernization and statehood preparations (Arizona became a state in 1912). Unlike more famous confrontations like the Gunfight at the O.K. Corral in Tombstone (1881), this event was smaller in scale but emblematic of the everyday dangers faced by lawmen confronting opportunistic criminals in saloons and public spaces.
Today, the site of the former Palace Saloon is associated with modern Tucson landmarks (some accounts link it to the general area of what is now near Club Congress), though the building itself has long since changed. The event lives on in Arizona law enforcement history and accounts of the Arizona Rangers.
This shootout underscores the complex transition of the American Southwest: a place where personal courage and marksmanship still decided outcomes, even as the frontier was closing. Harry Wheeler’s actions that night exemplified the Ranger ethos—direct, effective intervention in defense of the public.
Sasco, Arizona – Pinal County Ghost Town
Sasco, Arizona, is a ghost town in Pinal County, located west of Red Rock and approximately 35 miles northwest of Tucson. Its name is an acronym for the Southern Arizona Smelting Company. Founded in 1907 as a company town centered around a large smelter, it processed copper ore from nearby mines, primarily the Silver Bell Mine to the southwest.
Founding and Development
Sasco owes its creation to the Development Company of America (DCA), led by Frank Morrell Murphy (brother of Arizona Territorial Governor Oakes Murphy). Murphy envisioned consolidating mining operations in the Silver Bell Mountains into a large-scale enterprise, which was an innovative concept for the time when most mining was small-scale.
Key steps in its development included:
- In 1903–1904, Murphy and engineer William Field Staunton acquired and combined mines (such as the Union and Mammoth mines) into the Imperial Copper Company and the Silver Bell Mine.
- The Arizona Southern Railroad was built to connect the Silver Bell Mine to the Southern Pacific Railroad at Red Rock, facilitating transport of ore, supplies, water, and people.
- The Southern Arizona Smelting Company (Sasco) was formally organized on August 10, 1906. Construction of the smelter began in summer 1907 and was completed in February 1908.
The town was strategically placed roughly halfway between major mining areas and near the Santa Cruz River. At its peak, Sasco had a population of around 500–600 people. It featured a residential neighborhood, stores, saloons, a hotel (notably the Hotel Rockland), a jail (built of concrete), a power house that supplied electricity to the town, Silverbell, and the mine, and other amenities. The smelter employed about 175 men and processed significant amounts of ore—245,000 tons by 1910.
Operations and Challenges
Sasco functioned primarily as a smelting and milling town rather than a direct mining site. Ore arrived via rail from the Silver Bell Mine (about 12 miles southwest) and other areas, including near Picacho Peak. The smelter complex, power house, and related infrastructure were central to the community.
Despite early promise as one of the premier smelting towns in the Southwest, Sasco’s history was marked by instability:
- Financial difficulties for the DCA, including problems with other operations (e.g., in the Tombstone area), led to bankruptcy. The smelter closed around 1909–1911.
- In 1915, the American Smelting and Refining Company (ASARCO) acquired the Silver Bell Mine and briefly reopened the Sasco smelter, reviving the town temporarily.
Decline and Abandonment
The town faced a devastating blow during the winter of 1918–1919 when the Spanish Flu pandemic struck. It killed many residents, with numerous unmarked or plain concrete graves in the Sasco Cemetery attributed to the outbreak.
ASARCO closed the Silver Bell Mine and Sasco operations in 1921 to focus elsewhere. The post office, established on July 10, 1907, closed on September 15, 1919. In the early 1930s, amid falling copper prices, most buildings were demolished, and the railroad was removed. By around 1921 (or shortly after), Sasco was largely abandoned.
Today
Sasco is now a neglected ghost town site with visible ruins, including:
- Remnants of the smelter complex (a focal point, with graffiti and some remaining structures).
- Foundations of the stamp mill.
- The Hotel Rockland (made of volcanic stones).
- The concrete jail.
- Elevated railroad platforms.
- Other building foundations.
The Sasco Cemetery (northeast of the townsite, near the La Osa Ranch) is privately owned and generally closed to the public; many graves there are linked to the 1918–1919 flu. The site is accessible via dirt roads (high-clearance recommended, with potential Santa Cruz River crossing issues) from exits near Red Rock or Marana on I-10. It has seen use for recreational activities like paintball, leading to litter, shotgun shells, and graffiti.
Sasco stands out among Arizona ghost towns as a short-lived but ambitious smelting community rather than a typical mining camp. Its rapid rise and fall illustrate the boom-and-bust nature of early 20th-century Arizona mining, compounded by corporate finances, transportation dependencies, and public health crises. Ruins and historical accounts preserve its legacy as a footnote in the state’s copper industry history.
Epsom Salts Monorail
The Epsom Salts Monorail (also known as the Magnesium Monorail) was a short-lived but remarkable engineering experiment in the remote Mojave Desert of San Bernardino County, California.
It operated as a Lartigue-type monorail from 1924 to 1926, spanning approximately 28 miles (45 km) to transport epsomite (hydrated magnesium sulfate, commonly called Epsom salts) from a deposit in the Owlshead Mountains (near the Crystal Hills and southern edge of Death Valley) to a siding on the Trona Railway at Magnesia (about six miles south of Trona, near Searles Lake).
This was one of the few commercial monorails ever built in the United States and briefly gained fame as the “fastest monorail in the world” due to its downhill speeds. However, it proved economically unviable and was abandoned after just two years of operation.
Discovery and Early Development (1917–1922)
In 1917, prospectors discovered a deposit of magnesium salts in the multicolored badlands of the Crystal Hills, a rugged area of low ridges and ravines in northwestern San Bernardino County, roughly 28 miles east of Searles Lake and near the old Wingate Wash Borax Road. The site lay in desolate desert terrain between Wingate Valley, the Panamint Range, and areas visible from Death Valley—virtually uninhabited and far from infrastructure.
Los Angeles florist Thomas Wright acquired the mining claims in 1919. Initially, he and his team hauled supplies over punishing 40–63-mile dirt tracks from Randsburg (a journey plagued by broken springs, overheating engines, and rough terrain). Wright envisioned exploiting the epsomite for pharmaceutical and industrial uses but faced major transport challenges.
A plan to dissolve the salts and pump them via a 28-mile pipeline to the Trona Railway was abandoned due to insufficient water. Traditional narrow-gauge rail or road grading proved prohibitively expensive in the steep, rocky canyons and unstable lake beds. In 1921–1922, Wright formed the American Magnesium Company and opted for a monorail system—specifically an adaptation of the French Lartigue monorail design, which used a single elevated rail and balancing outriggers for stability in challenging terrain.
Construction began in late 1922 at Magnesia Siding on the Trona Railway. Douglas fir timber was shipped by sea to San Pedro, then railed to the site. A prototype was built, and a patent secured on June 23, 1923.
Engineering and Construction (1922–1924)
The monorail was a custom timber-and-steel adaptation of the Lartigue system. A central 4×6-inch or 6×8-inch wooden “riding beam” (supported by A-frame trestles spaced about 8 feet apart) carried a standard T-section steel rail (mostly 80 lb/yd, some lighter). The A-frames featured diagonal braces, horizontal crosspieces, and 2×6-inch side balancing boards or rails for stabilizing rollers. Bents were anchored to broad sills sunk into sand and gravel, with extra bracing over arroyos. The entire structure rose only a few feet off the ground in most places.
The route climbed dramatically: it crossed the dry bed of Searles Lake in long tangents, ascended through Layton Canyon in the Slate Range (gaining 1,800 feet over 5 miles at a 7% grade), crossed Layton Pass (summit ~3,501 ft / 1,067 m), descended into Panamint Valley (with one road overpass creating a roller-coaster effect), climbed steeply (10–12% grades) over Wingate Pass, and followed Wingate Wash and Crystal Hills Wash to the mine. Blasting was required in hard-rock sections.
Construction took two years and cost an estimated $200,000–$350,000 (sources vary on the exact figure). By September 1923, half the line was complete. The monorail opened in June 1924.
Operation and Brief Success (1924–1926)
Rolling stock consisted of steel-framed locomotives and carriages with double-flanged wheels riding the central rail and spring-suspended steel rollers (8 inches high and wide) on the side boards for balance. Loads hung low in saddlebag-like containers on either side, keeping the center of gravity stable (much like pack saddles on a mule). Couplings came from scrapped Los Angeles streetcars. Brakes were locomotive-only.
Initially battery-powered units proved underpowered; the company modified seven Fordson tractors and one heavier Buda tractor into articulated monorail locomotives (each handling 1–2 trailers, or up to 3,400 lb per loco and 8,500 lb per car). A small workforce (12–15 men at the mine) scraped high-grade epsomite from surface deposits using basic tools.
Trains operated at normal speeds of 8–15 mph uphill/flats but reached up to 35 mph (56 km/h) downhill. One engineer famously completed a fully loaded 28–30-mile run in about one hour, earning the line its “fastest monorail in the world” nickname (though he was reportedly fired for the reckless speed). Salt was sacked at the mine, railed to Magnesia Siding, then shipped by standard rail to a refining plant in Wilmington, California, for processing into Epsom salts, Glauber’s salt, and magnesium carbonate.
Challenges, Decline, and Closure
Despite the engineering novelty, the operation faced insurmountable problems. High-grade surface epsomite depleted quickly, leaving lower-quality ore contaminated with up to 50% sand, clay, and other salts. Wooden beams warped as they dried in the desert heat, causing misalignment. Cloudbursts and flash floods washed out sections (especially near Layton Pass and on Searles Lake bed, where up to 14 inches of water softened sediments). Landslides and uneven settling further damaged the track. Locomotives and brakes were inadequate for sustained heavy loads, and maintenance was costly.
Output fell far short of estimates. Intense competition from cheaper brine-based magnesium producers doomed the venture. The mine and monorail shut down in June 1926 (some accounts cite 1927), after transporting only modest tonnages over two years. The American Magnesium Company was liquidated with minimal recovery of investment.
Aftermath and Legacy (1930s–Present)
The monorail stood idle for about a decade. In the late 1930s, the steel rail and longitudinal timbers were salvaged and sold for scrap. Only scattered A-frames remained, many later used as firewood, removed, or scattered by floods; most have since disappeared.
Today, the largest surviving sections lie in restricted military areas of the China Lake Naval Air Weapons Center (Range B). The mine site itself is within Death Valley National Park and accessible via Fort Irwin National Training Center near Tecopa (with permits). Concrete foundations, salt piles, and house ruins persist at the old camp. A historical marker (erected 2008 by E Clampus Vitus and the Bureau of Land Management) stands near SR-178 and Pinnacle Road, about 16 miles east of Ridgecrest.
The Epsom Salts Monorail remains a classic example of desert mining ambition and engineering ingenuity in the face of harsh geography. It highlighted the limits of wooden infrastructure in extreme environments and the economic realities of remote mineral extraction. Though a commercial failure, its innovative design and brief “world’s fastest” reputation continue to fascinate historians of unusual railways.
For further reading, see Alexander K. Rogers’ book The Epsom Salts Monorail: The American Magnesium Company Monorail in San Bernardino County, California (Maturango Museum) and Richard H. Jahns’ 1951 article “Epsom Salts Line—Monorail to Nowhere” in Engineering and Science.
Unionville, Nevada – Pershing County
Unionville, Nevada, is a small unincorporated community and census-designated place (CDP) in Pershing County, located in Buena Vista Canyon on the eastern slope of the Humboldt Range. It sits south of Interstate 80, just west of State Route 400. As of the 2020 census, it had a population of 27.
It is often described as a living ghost town or semi-ghost town, with remnants of its mining past including old mill foundations, a historic cemetery, abandoned structures like a one-room schoolhouse and Mark Twain’s former cabin, and a few occupied homes.
Founding and Early History (1861)
Unionville originated during the early Nevada silver mining boom. In spring 1861, Paiute Indians brought silver ore samples from Buena Vista Canyon to Virginia City. Prospectors followed and confirmed rich deposits. The Unionville (or Buena Vista) mining district was organized shortly afterward, and the town was laid out in May 1861 in the upper part of the canyon.
Initially called Buena Vista (after the canyon) and then Dixie by Southern sympathizers, the name changed to Unionville around July 4, 1861 (or late 1861), as Northern and neutral factions gained dominance amid Civil War tensions. The town was divided into sections (e.g., Lower Town/Dixie for Southerners and Upper Town for Northerners), separated by “Centerville” as a sort of Mason-Dixon line.
In November 1861, Unionville became the county seat of the newly created Humboldt County, serving in that role until 1873.
Boom Years (1863–1870)
Unionville experienced its peak mining boom between 1863 and 1870. Exaggerated reports of riches drew prospectors, including Samuel Clemens (Mark Twain), who arrived in late 1861/1862 intending to strike it rich but left disappointed after limited success. He described the early camp as “eleven cabins and a liberty-pole” in Roughing It.
At its height, the population reached 1,000–1,500. The town stretched over two miles along the canyon and featured over 200 houses, ten stores, nine saloons, six hotels, four livery stables, a brewery, and other businesses. Two newspapers served the area: the Humboldt Register and Silver State. An omnibus line ran hourly between sections of town. The Arizona Mine (discovered 1862) was a major producer, along with others like the Henning and Pfluger. Three stamp mills operated in the early 1870s to process lower-grade ores.
Silver was the primary commodity, with some gold. High-grade ore was sometimes shipped to Wales for processing. The town acted as a supply and distribution center.
Social Issues and Challenges
Like many Western mining towns, Unionville had tensions. In January 1869, an Anti-Chinese League forcibly expelled around 35–50 Chinese residents (miners and laborers), transporting them to Mill City on the railroad. This reflected widespread anti-Chinese sentiment in Nevada; federal indictments followed, but few convictions resulted. Some Chinese miners later returned to work claims in the area into the early 20th century.
Decline (1870s Onward)
By 1870, rich surface ores were largely depleted, and deeper mining proved less profitable. A major fire in 1872 caused significant damage. The completion of the Central Pacific Railroad through the Humboldt Valley (bypassing Unionville and favoring Winnemucca as a trade hub) accelerated the decline. In 1873, the Humboldt County seat moved to Winnemucca. By 1880, the population had dropped to around 200. Mining continued on a smaller scale into the 1880s, but Unionville never recovered its former prominence.
Pershing County was created in 1919 from part of Humboldt County (named after General John Pershing); Unionville fell within the new county but was too small to compete for the county seat (Lovelock became the seat). By 1920, only about 70 people remained.
Modern Unionville
Today, Unionville is a quiet hamlet with a small permanent population (around 20–27). It features scattered ruins, preserved sites like Twain’s cabin, a historic cemetery, and some modern structures. There is limited tourism, including a tourist inn, but no formal local government. It serves as a reminder of Nevada’s early mining history.
Unionville highlights the classic boom-and-bust cycle of Nevada mining towns, shaped by mineral wealth, Civil War politics, transportation changes, and shifting economic centers. Its brief but vibrant history contributed to the development of Humboldt and Pershing counties in the American West.
Nevada State Historic Marker 232
Nevada Historical Marker 232
Reunion in Unionville
SR 400 in in County Park
UnionvilleReunion in Unionville
Across the road and down about 300 feet was the original Unionville school. Built in 1862, this adobe building was the first public structure in the county. Used by such organizations as the Union League, Knights of the Golden Circle, the Masons and the Ancient and Honorable Order of E. Clampus Vitus, it served the community until its demolition in 1871.
Exactly 109 years later, members of the E.C.V. gathered here to hold a reunion in commemoration of this propitious event. To the rear of this marker are the remains of Mark Twain’s cabin. Also a member of E.C.V., he built this structure in 1861 and lived here before moving to Virginia City.