Big Bear, CA
I quiet mountain community full of back country adventure.
Ballarat California – Inyo County Ghost Town
Ballarat, California, is a near-ghost town and unincorporated community in Inyo County, located in the Panamint Valley at the base of the Panamint Range, west of Death Valley National Park (elevation about 1,079 feet).
It was founded in 1897 (some sources say 1896) as a supply and recreation hub for mines in the surrounding canyons, particularly after discoveries in the Panamint Range. The site had earlier use: Post Office Springs, about a quarter-mile south, served as a reliable water source since the 1850s for emigrants, prospectors, and even outlaws who used a mesquite tree mail drop in the 1870s.
The town was named after the famous gold-mining city of Ballarat in Victoria, Australia, reportedly at the suggestion of Australian immigrant George Riggins.
Heyday (1897–1905)
In its peak years, Ballarat had a population of 400–500. It functioned primarily as a provisioning and entertainment center for miners rather than a mining town itself. The nearby Ratcliff (or Radcliffe) Mine in Pleasant Canyon was a major producer (about 15,000 tons of gold ore from 1898–1903), and the broader area yielded nearly a million dollars in gold.
Known businesses and services in its boom period included:
- Seven saloons (a key attraction for relaxation and “frolic”).
- Three hotels.
- Wells Fargo station (important for transport and finance).
- Post office (opened 1897; closed 1917).
- School.
- Jail and morgue.
- A general store or supply stores and a blacksmith shop (earlier establishments).
- No churches were reported.
It was described as a “jumping-off place” for prospectors heading into the mountains, with adobe structures, burros, and a rough, lawless character typical of late-19th/early-20th-century desert mining camps.
Decline
The town declined rapidly after the Ratcliff Mine suspended operations around 1903–1905, as other local mines played out. By 1917, the post office closed, and Ballarat became a virtual ghost town, with only a few die-hard prospectors remaining.
A handful of “desert rats” lingered into the 20th century. In the 1960s, developer Neil Cummins bought land and attempted a revival (including building a general store), envisioning tourism, but it did not materialize on a large scale.
Later History and Notable Residents
- Seldom Seen Slim (Charles Ferge, c. 1881–1968): The town’s most famous long-term resident and often its sole inhabitant from around 1918 until his death. A classic solitary prospector, he lived without modern amenities (claiming not to have bathed for years except by splashing water outdoors) in a trailer or Volkswagen after adobe buildings deteriorated. He was known for his colorful quotes, such as “Me lonely? Hell no! I’m half coyote and half wild burro,” which appears on his grave in Ballarat’s Boot Hill cemetery (the 28th and last burial there). A peak in the area is named after him.
- Frank “Shorty” Harris (1857–1934): Legendary Death Valley prospector (“single blanket-jackass prospector”) who discovered major strikes like the Bullfrog district. He lived in Ballarat off and on (including in the old schoolhouse) until near his death and is buried elsewhere in Death Valley beside friend James Dayton.
- Other figures: Assayer Fred Grey (long-term resident); Chris Wicht (kept a saloon open longer); gunman “Jim” Sherlock; George Novak (prospector and later caretaker with son Rock).
Modern era (late 20th–21st century): The town has had minimal permanent residents. Rock (or Rocky) Novak, son of George, served as caretaker/”mayor”/sheriff/judge/undertaker for years (moving there around 2004), running a bare-bones general store/museum selling sodas and sharing history, operating a small motel, and maintaining vintage items (including a truck linked to the Manson Family). He has since moved to nearby Trona, with the store occasionally managed by others. Ballarat now has around 1–2 full-time residents at times.
It remains a stop for tourists, four-wheelers, and campers (up to hundreds in winter). Nearby connections include the Manson Family’s use of Barker Ranch (south of town) in the late 1960s, with some graffiti and a reputed truck in Ballarat. The 1969 film Easy Rider filmed a scene here. A 1971 hippie festival led to a hepatitis outbreak. It has also appeared in other media.
Today, visitors see adobe ruins, the cemetery, the operating (or intermittently operating) general store, and desert scenery. It is privately owned in part and serves as a gateway to Panamint Range explorations.
Ballarat exemplifies the boom-and-bust cycle of Western mining towns—brief prosperity followed by abandonment, sustained only by hardy individuals and passing travelers. Its isolation and colorful characters have made it a enduring symbol of the Mojave Desert’s rugged history.
Notoriety
In 1968 and 1969, Charles Manson and his “family” moved into Barker Ranch. The town of Ballarat was Mansons last link to civilization and served as a supply source for his desert exploits. Not to caste the town with the murderer, the town also supplied the arresting officers who raided Barker Ranch and subsequently arrested Manson and his family.
Time has taken its tole on the builds of the adobe buildings. Wind and water are literally melting the builds back into the desert.
Today, Ballarat is the subject of a few odd television shows and again made headlines with the Ballarat Bandit. In 2003, George Robert Johnston camped around Ballarat and Death Valley. During this time, he committed burglaries before leading investigators on a chase across the desert.
Ballarat Personalities
 Charles Ferge “Seldom Seen Slim” – A Ballarat ProspectorCharles Ferge "Seldom Seen Slim" Charles Ferge “Seldom Seen Slim” (c. 1881–1968) was one of the last of the classic “desert rats”—solitary prospectors who embodied… |
 Charles Milles MaddoxCharles Milles Maddox AKA Charlie Manson was a serial killer and most of the bad parts of the Old Testament sort of criminal. He briefly… |
 Frank “Shorty” HarrisFrank “Shorty” Harris (1857–1934) was one of the most colorful and enduring figures of the American desert West—a short-statured, hard-drinking, single-blanket jackass prospector whose 1904… |
 George Robert Johnston – The Ballarat BanditA police sketch of the Ballarat Bandit - George Robert Johnston George Robert Johnston, known as the Ballarat Bandit, was a petty criminal who lead… |
 Pete Aguereberry – A Panamint Valley MinerJean Pierre “Pete” Aguereberry (1874–1945), universally known as Pete Aguereberry, was a Basque-born prospector and miner whose four-decade solitary vigil at the Eureka Mine in… |
4×4 Trails near Ballarat
 Indian Ranch RoadDeath Valley National Park 4x4 and Back Country Roads Indian Ranch Road is a scenic, graded dirt road located in the Panamint Valley within the… |
Jail Canyon RoadDeath Valley National Park 4x4 and Back Country Roads Jail Canyon Road is a rugged, scenic 4WD trail in the western Panamint Mountains, branching east… |
References
Chicalote (Argemone munita)
A species of prickly poppy, Chicalote (Argemone munita) is also known as the flatbud prickly poppy. A native of California, the Chicalote is also found in Nevada and Arizona. This hearty wildflower dereives its name from the Latin work “Minuta” which means armed, in reference the the small sharr spines commonly found on its lobed leaves.
The flower consists of sixe crinkly looking white petals and feature many bright yellow stamen. The delicate looking flowers can reach and overall diameters of up to fie inches. Overall, the plant commonly reaches about three feet in height.
The leaves of Argemone munita are mint green in color, dry in appearance and quite lobed. Each leaf is armed and features a small short spike for protection.
The Chicalote poppy commonly grows in dry rocky areas and found at elevations up to 10,000 feet. The flower typically grows in chaparral, or northern slopes of Transverse ranges and desert mountains. The plant typically puts its flower in bloom in June through August.
It is quite common to find this little gem of a flower in San Diego, the areas surrounding Los Angeles up the High Sierra and into Mono County.
Mustang (Equus ferus caballus)
The Wild Mustang (Equus caballus), an enduring symbol of the American frontier, roams the vast, arid expanses of the desert southwest United States as a feral horse population descended from domesticated Spanish horses introduced in the 16th century. These hardy equines, often romanticized in folklore and media, have adapted through natural selection to survive in harsh environments, exhibiting remarkable resilience amid sparse resources and extreme conditions. With populations managed by the U.S. Bureau of Land Management (BLM) to balance ecological sustainability, mustangs embody a complex interplay of history, biology, and conservation in regions like Nevada, Arizona, and New Mexico.
Classification
The Wild Mustang is classified within the kingdom Animalia, phylum Chordata, class Mammalia, order Perissodactyla, family Equidae, genus Equus, and species caballus. Though often referred to as “wild,” mustangs are technically feral horses, descendants of domesticated equines rather than a truly wild subspecies like the extinct North American horses that evolved on the continent millions of years ago. Their ancestry traces primarily to Colonial Spanish horses from the Iberian Peninsula, with mitochondrial DNA studies confirming high frequencies of Iberian haplotypes, though admixtures from other breeds like Thoroughbreds, Quarter Horses, and drafts have occurred over time. Distinct strains, such as the Spanish Mustang or Kiger Mustang, retain stronger Spanish bloodlines, while isolated herds in the desert southwest may exhibit unique genetic traits shaped by geographic separation and natural selection.
Physical Description
Mustangs are compact, medium-sized horses, typically standing 14 to 15 hands high (56 to 60 inches or 142 to 152 cm at the withers) and weighing around 800 pounds (360 kg). They possess a light-riding build with muscular bodies, strong bone structure, and exceptional hardiness, featuring flat or slightly convex head profiles, broad foreheads tapering to fine muzzles, and eyes set slightly higher on the face. Necks are well-defined and attach smoothly to sloping shoulders, with moderately narrow chests, short strong backs, deep heart girths, well-sprung ribs, and smooth round hindquarters. Legs are straight and sound, supported by durable hooves with thick walls, ideal for rugged terrain. Coat colors vary widely, including bay, sorrel, dun, appaloosa, paint patterns, and primitive markings like stripes, though some registries exclude certain patterns like tobiano. Movement is smooth and rhythmic, with the ability to gallop at 25–30 mph (40–48 km/h), and up to 55 mph (88 km/h) in short bursts. In the desert southwest, natural selection favors traits like surefootedness, endurance, and agility for navigating arid landscapes.
Behavior
Wild mustangs are social animals that form structured groups known as bands or herds, typically comprising one dominant stallion (over 6 years old), around eight mares, and their young, led by a head mare who guides the group to safety in threats while the stallion defends from behind. Stallion leadership is dynamic, with challenges from rivals promoting genetic diversity. Communication relies on body language, such as ear positioning, tail swishing, and vocalizations, to convey emotions and maintain hierarchy. They exhibit intelligence, curiosity, and a strong fight-or-flight response honed by survival in harsh environments, making them cautious yet resilient. In the desert southwest, mustangs travel long distances for resources, adapting foraging strategies and mixing with other herds during dangers. Isolated populations may show unique behaviors, like gaited movements or curly coats in Nevada herds, influenced by genetic admixtures. Without significant predators, populations can grow rapidly, leading to overgrazing if unmanaged.
Food Sources
As herbivores and hindgut fermenters, mustangs primarily consume grasses, brush, shrubs, and other native vegetation, extracting nutrients from low-quality forage via their cecum—a adaptation allowing survival in arid regions where ruminants like cattle struggle. In the desert southwest, they graze close to the ground on sparse plants, ranging 5–10 times farther than cattle to access food and water, often digging for hydration in dry areas. Their diet requires about 1.5 animal units (AUM) of forage, focusing on soluble fiber while avoiding excess sugars to prevent digestive issues. An average mustang needs around 16 pounds of grass daily, supplemented by minerals and salts in harsh environments. This opportunistic foraging supports their easy-keeper nature, enabling them to thrive on limited resources in deserts and grasslands.
Breeding
Mustangs are viviparous, with mares carrying foals for an 11-month gestation period, typically giving birth in spring (April to June) to align with milder weather and abundant forage for growth. Breeding occurs within isolated herds, where dominant stallions mate with mares, and dynamic challenges ensure genetic diversity, though inbreeding in small populations can lead to issues like reduced heterozygosity and diseases such as PSSM Type 1. Unmanaged herds can grow by up to 20% annually, prompting BLM interventions like fertility control to prevent overpopulation and starvation. Foals are born precocial, able to stand and nurse shortly after birth, and remain with the herd for protection. In the desert southwest, breeding success ties to resource availability, with natural selection favoring resilient offspring in arid conditions. Lifespans in the wild reach up to 36 years, shorter than in captivity.
Habitat and Range
Wild mustangs inhabit arid and semiarid public rangelands west of the Continental Divide, including deserts, grasslands, and mountainous terrains, where they adapt to extreme temperatures, scarce water, and sparse vegetation. In the desert southwest United States, populations thrive in states like Nevada (hosting over half of North America’s free-roaming mustangs), Arizona, New Mexico, Utah, and California, managed across 26.9 million acres in Herd Management Areas (HMAs) by the BLM. These areas encompass ecosystems from the Great Basin to the Colorado Plateau, with herds digging for water and migrating seasonally for forage. Total free-roaming numbers exceed 72,000, protected under the 1971 Wild Free-Roaming Horses and Burros Act as living symbols of the West, though overpopulation challenges lead to roundups and adoptions.
Resources
Classification
Silvery Lupine (Lupinus argenteus)
Silvery Lupine (Lupinus argenteus) is a fairly common vibrant purple wild flower and is common in much of Western North America including Arizona, California, Nevada and Utah. Deriving its name from the fine silvery hair found on its stalks, which are reddish in color.
Lupine is a stalked plant which grows up to four feet tall. The Lupine thrives in higher elevations and may be commonly found between 3,300 and 10,000 feet. It is quite common for the flower to be found along roadways, stream valleys, rocky prairies and in open pine woods.
The Lupine typically blooms in June to October, however like many wild flowers, this period will vary dependent upon water and location. The violet colored flowers are typically arranged around a spike which may reach up to eight inches in length.
The Silvery Lupine grows quickly and in bunches and considered a member of the pea family. Although toxic to humans, this beautiful flowering plant is known to attach butterflies, birds and hummingbirds.
The Navajo people used the Silvery Lupine as a natural treatment for Poison Ivy blisters. The Lupine is commonly found in clearings in the countries of Apache, Coconino, and Mohave, and Navajo in Arizona.
California Wild Rose (Rosa californica)
The California Wild Rose (Rosa californica) is a native species of Rose, which is found in California and Oregon and most commonly found in the foot hills of the High Sierra Mountain Range. This is a hearty little planet which can survive the droughts of California, and typically found near water sources.
This plant can be found at elevations up to 6,000 feet. It seeks shady areas at lower elevations but as the altitude increases so does the likelihood to find this little plant in sunny areas.
The California Wild Rose is a low lying shrub which can grow in tall thickets. The plant produces a fragrant pink or magenta colored five petaled flowers with yellow stamen. The delicate looking flower is edible and the hibs of the plant may be used in teas. During WWII, the hips were used as a source of vitamins.
The wild rose is one of the few flowers that blooms cheerfully through the long summer days, lavishing its beautiful clusters of deliciously fragrant flowers as freely along the dusty roadside as in the more secluded thicket. In autumn it often seems inspired to a special luxuriance of blossoming, and it lingers to greet the asters and mingle its pink flowers and brilliant scarlet hips with their delicate lilacs.
Mary Elizabeth Parsons
Like many roses, the wild rose also grows throws for protection for itself, along with shelter for many smaller mammals and birds.