Big Bear, CA
I quiet mountain community full of back country adventure.
Bristlecone Pine (Pinus longaeva)
Blown by wind, and ravaged by time, the Bristlecone pine tree is a silent sentinel of the White Mountains in eastern central California. Only growing high in subapline mountains, Bristlecone pine trees are among the oldest living organisms, reaching ages of 5000 years old, with on specimen being documented at 5,067 years old by Tom Harlan who aged the tree by ring count. That calculation confirms this one individual tree to be the oldest living non-clonal organism on the planet.
The Bristlecone pine groves are found between 5,600 and 11,200 ft of elevation on mountain slopes with dolomitic coils and can be reached using the White Mountain Road. This harsh alkaline soil gives the Bristlecone a competitive advantage because over plants and tree are unable to grow. The trees grow very slowly due cold temperatures, arid soil, wind and short growing seasons.
Reaching a maximum height of 49 ft with a truck diameter up to 12 ft, the Bristlecone pine maintains a bright orange or yellow. The stunted, twisted and gnarled trees contain deep fissures which expose deep orange bands of wood within the tree. The waxy needles are bunched in groups of five and form at the end of branches and also aid in water conservation. The Bristlecone wood is resistant to insects, fungi and other pests which may shorten its lifespan, due to the density of its wood and relatively high resin content. The harsh environment the tree grows in undoubtedly contributes. Unlike most trees which rot with age, the wood of this tree is contorted and eroded from sand, high winds, rain and ice. The age of these tree and harsh conditions cause the trees to twist and contort into other-worldly forms.
As with many species, the Bristlecone is uniquely qualified to thrive in its selected climate. The tree maintains a shallow highly branched root system which not only brings in water from the soil around it, but also anchors the tree the the side of the mountain. Its dense wood which protects from insects, also protects from the winds. Although the Bristlecone pine population is stable, it is being monitored as a species of Least Concern due to its slow rate of growth, low reproduction rate, harsh environment and environmental concerns.
The age of these trees is story of these gnarled trees. Although fantastic photographic subject, they are not particularly nice looking trees. They tend to be rather short, not very green and in some cases appear to be mostly dead or dying. However, they hold the top three on the list of oldest living trees and are aged about 1000 years over the fourth ranked tree. The third ranked tree, Prometheus, was cut down in by a graduate student in 1964 and the U.S Forest Service, because they did that sort of thing back then. Prometheus was 4844 years old on its death and due to its location in Baker Nevada could be a trip in the next few years. Over fifty years since the tree was killed, it is easy to second guess the decision with hind-sight and an environmental outlook that did not exist as much back then. Science is not always clean and neat.
The second tree on the list is Methuselah at 4849 years of age at was the oldest tree until 2012 when an older tree was found. The unidentified and unnamed oldest tree was 5,067 years old by Tom Harlan calculated its age in 2012. This tree was around before the oldest pyramid of Egypt, the Pyramid of Djoser which was built in the 27th century B.C.
One a personal note, I can not remember when I didn’t know about the old trees in the white mountains. I don’t remember my first visit, but I will never forget my last. The wonderful part of these trees, is that their small environments are so remote and high in the mountains. The trees are special and should be seen. Walked through. Appreciated. Unlike other large tree groves, such as the Redwoods of Yosemite, the Bristlecone pine groves of the White Mountains, CA, are not as visited. Which means that you can visit the trees and be alone without the throngs of people. Finally, when you are done and turn back towards the car, if you are in the White Mountains, you get some of the most amazing view of the Owens valley below you.
Goffs California – San Bernardino County Ghost Town
Originally known as Blake, Goffs, California is a small unincorporated community located off of Route 66 in the Mojave desert near the Piute Mountains. Originally named for Isaac Blake, builder of the Nevada Southern Railway, the town was named Goffs in 1902, when it served as a railway stop, and housing for the Santa Fe Railroad.
In 1914, Goffs built a schoolhouse which served 1000 square miles of the surrounding desert. The students were primarily children of railroad employees, miners and Mexican immigrant families. The school continued to function as a educational facility until it’s closure in 1937 when the Goffs School District was merged with the nearby Needles school district. During World War II, the “Mission Revival” building served as a canteen for the Desert Training Center, which trained US servicemen for the hardships of desert life in preparation for the African Campaign.
Today, the Goffs school house is used by the Mojave Desert Heritage and Cultural Associations and a museum and cultural center. The schoolhouse was recognized on the National Register of Historic Places on Aug 7th, 2001. ( #01001102 )
Goffs California found it’s way onto my list of cool places by accident on a family vacation along the Old Mojave Road. The first day in, we camped in the New York Mountains. We scheduled a rest day where we could drive the jeeps with a non burden suspension and explore the Mojave Dessert. Almost as an after-thought, we headed towards Goffs not knowing what to expect or who we would find.
As we pulled into the area, we could see a windmill and a couple of buildings which are located behind a locked gate. We decided to get out to stretch a bit, and after a few minutes I noticed a man driving up in a golf cart. At first I was concerned that some old desert hermit was investigating trespassers on his land, and was immediately surprised when this man opened the gate and invited us onto his property. It turned our that this man was Dennis Casebier, the man who wrote the book and rediscovered the Old Mojave Road.
That afternoon, we spent a good portion of the day with the fascinating Mr. Casebier. He told us how he retired to Goffs in the 1990’s and worked to protect the history of the area. He relived the days of searching and marking off the Old Mojave Road by building rock cairns, hundreds of them. He told the stories of the military activity in the area during World War II. He offered us a complete tour of his land and collection of mining equipment, stamp mills, train equipment, etc…
Preserving the Old Mojave Road and the history of the area is Mr. Casebier’s work. At the time, he showed us a 2 stamp stampmill that he restored into working condition and share his plans to assemble a 10 stamp mill which he recently acquired. I understand that he now has this mill working as well, so I need to schedule another trip down to Goffs.
As we were leaving, we thanked him for his hospitality and for opening up for us. He replied that he could not ignore a couple of dirty jeeps driving down the road.
That night, around the campfire I reflected on how fortunate I was to meet Dennis Casebier. I felt privileged, and yet, I suspect that I really was not that lucky. I imagine this that I am one of many, who drove down the road into Goffs and talk with Dennis Casebier.
Further Reading
Continue Reading →Success Mine
The Success Mine is an gold mine site located just off Masonic Road, the between McMillan Springs and the Chemung Mine in Mono County, CA.
There is little data on this small claim. The mine shafts eventually reached a depth of 50 feet to a mineral vein which traveled North East and dips South East and was valued at $11 / ton. Eventually water was stuck and filled the shaft to the 25ft level.
Bridgeport. – The Success Mining Co. has exposed a 3 1/2-ft. vein of high-grade ore in its property in the Masonic district. The find was made in a drift north from the 50-ft level. The mining operations were purchased by Elmer S. Green and associates from John H. and C. C. Hayes of Bridgeport, in July.
Mining and Scientific Press- October 29, 1921
Although I try to always stop at such locations, sadly that was not in the cards on our last trip. The Chemung Mine was rather overwelming and the little competitor mine did not compare. There was also some hungry kids in the Jeep as well. As with any trip, I came away with more trails to follow and history to investigate.
Success Mine Trail Map
A Sons introduction to High Sierra fishing
As a boy growing up, I was fortunate enough to spend a great deal of time in the High Sierra mountains fishing. When I was about five years old, I learned to fish in Lone Pine Creek, California under the watchful eye of my grandfather. We left camp one afternoon and walked about 50 feet to a small pool next to our campsite. My memory of this event has faded, but my recollection of the event is that I quickly caught my limit of Rainbow trout within about 30 minutes and returned to camp with a full stringer of fish. I recall my grandfather recalling later that it was the “damnedest thing”, and surely proof of beginners luck. Time embellishes all tales, and true with fish stories the facts of the actual event may no longer support the tale being told. It is true non the less that I had beginners luck!
For the next fifteen years or so, my parents, brother and I would spend a great deal of time in the High Sierra, or other camping locations. My brother and I perfected our fishing technique in the high mountain lakes and streams. We did not always catch our limit, nor did we have a desire to harvest more than we could eat that day, but we often had fresh trout for dinner. Eventually, our camping trips became further and far between and my interest in fishing waned as the cost for a licensed increased.
Continue Reading →One Tree Hill, A trip to the U2 Joshua Tree
A trip to the U2 Joshua Tree brought back a life time of memories. There was never a point in time that I was not aware of Joshua Tree’s. Growing up in Southern California, they are a common site in the high desert and after all there is a National Park named after them. Many nights I have spent camping in the national park and asking my dad about the Joshua Trees. They are just so weird. Their limbs twisted in the wind. They thrive in the harsh desert environment, yet don’t offer much shade. The are a symbol of the desert southwest, and perhaps would be THE symbol of the desert south west if not for the saguaro cactus.
I remember exactly where I was when I was introduced to the Irish Band U2 by a close friend of mine. Back then, they were the Irish Rock Band U2. I was introduced to them watching a video tape copy of “Under a Blood Red Sky” and forever fell in love with my Irish compatriots. In 1987, U2 released there next album “The Joshua Tree” which also coincided with my passing the exam for my drivers license. I wore out by original tape and its copy driving the city of Pasadena to and from high school.
The album tore through the consciousness of the United States and this Irish boy had a little more pride in his heritage. The best part was that the album was named after and predominately featured photographs of the iconic image of the desert.
In May, 1987 my friend invited me to a trip to Death Valley. As his father drove across the desert that afternoon, my friend pointed out the window and yelled, “There is ‘THE’ Joshua Tree”. By the time I turned around in my seat, the tree was off in the distance. I could not tell from the angle and distance, but the area looked about right. We drove on, the sounds of an Irish Harmonic flowing through the speakers. I would soon forget this conversation, a foot note of my past.
I always wanted to see the Joshua Tree of u2. Before the internet it was not easy to find places such as this. They don’t put this information on maps. Rumor and stories filled the void. I never asked, but over the years I heard that the site of U2’s Joshua tree was not near the National Park. I heard that someone lite it on fire. I heard it died. Many stories told of unprepared people dying while searching for the Joshua Tree. All just rumors.
I never thought about the Joshua tree site until I started Destination4x4.com. After about 10 minutes searching on the Internet, I found it. Sadly the rumor it died proved to be true. But then an odd thing happened. Like many lost places of the Mojave, there is a small make shift monument to U2 at the site of the fallen tree. The dead tree is still there, fallen to the earth around 2000 and being consumed by the harsh desert climate. The site is located just off the CA Highway 190 between Lone Pine and Death Valley.
Within a year, of finding the Joshua Tree site, I found myself driving along the highway 190 into Lone Pine, CA. There is no marker to the site, and no paved road to follow. The site of the Joshua Tree is located about 100 years off of the road, which runs parallel to the highway. After some back road creative navigation, I saw a glint of metal and the downed icon about .5 miles in front of me.
As I walked towards the dead Joshua Tree, I could not help but think about how silly this endeavor was. A grown man taking his family to see a dead tree. My inner sound tracked played “Running to Stand Still” as I stepped back into the past. Memories of high school came flooding back. The surrounding hills morphed into the album cover. I recalled a conversation between me and a lost friend on the highway not too far from here where he was convinced he saw this tree. I now know he did see it.
Like many places in the Mojave, a make shift monuments lies on the site. Undoubtedly updated with each new visitor who like me hunt down the obscure. It is a matter of time until a passing windstorm, dry climate and time remove any remnants of the Joshua tree. Oddly enough, it was here alone with my small family that I understood what I what I wanted to do with Destination4x4.com. The four us jumped back into the jeep. I loaded up the Joshua Tree on my phone and played “Where the streets have no name” as we drove off for our next adventure.
Update
Just under a year after our visit to the Joshua Tree, for our wedding anniversary, Heather and I saw the band play their songs from the dessert at the Rose Bowl in Pasadena on May 20th, 2017. I found out later that I had a case of double Pneumonia, but would not miss this for the world. The concert was a celebration of their music and the desert landscape which i love.
